Today on Bestlaminate’s blog, we are happy to have Rayan Turner of The Design Confidential create a special post for us! He’s going to teach us how to build a toddler sized industrial cart bed!
This bed is extremely easy to make and budget friendly to build, not to mention you can get this project done without the use of major power tools! If you have wanted to try your hand at DIY furniture building but have been a bit hesitant to do so, this is the perfect project to cut your teeth on!
Estimated Cost: $25-50
- Safety Gear
- Tape Measure
- Saw- optional and you can have your local lumber supply cut your boards for you
- Kreg Jig- optional and you can use a countersink bit and wood screws
- 1- 1×4 at 10′
- 3- 1×4 at 8′
- 1 1/2″ Wood Screws
- 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws- only if you are using a Kreg Jig for attaching the Slats
- 3/4″ tapping screws
- 2- 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ 90 degree Metal Edging at 4′
- 2- 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ 90 degree Metal Edging at 2′
- 2- 1×4 at 29 1/2″ Head and Foot Board
- 2- 1×4 at 53″ Side Rails
- 7- 14 at 28″ Bed Slats
Be sure you understand the necessary safety precautions required to build, and you are working on a level and clean surface. Use glue and countersink or pre-drill all connections. If you need assistance during this process, please feel free to ask any questions you may have via email at email@example.com. I am happy to help where I can. Understanding the basic building process is important, so brush up before you begin. You are always building at your own risk so take the required precautions to build properly. Safety is Crucial.
Build your box. I chose to use wood screws and countersink to add to the industrial feel of the bed rather than use a Kreg Jig, but this was just a personal design choice. You can build your box in this manner or you can use your Kreg Jig set for 3⁄4” material and your 1 1⁄4” pocket hole screws to secure the outside pieces together.
Add your bed slats. You can do this by countersinking and using your 1 1⁄2” wood screws and glue to attach the slats to the box pictured above, flush with the bottom of the box and evenly spaced (about 5” apart). You can also use your Kreg Jig set for 3⁄4” material and your 1 1⁄4” pocket hole screws and glue. Be sure the top most and bottom most slat are flush with the Head and Foot Board portion of the box.
Attach the Metal Edging using 3⁄4” self-tapping screws. You won’t be able to pre drill or countersink for this step so you should concentrate on fastening nice and tight and alternate which side of the metal edging perforations you fasten your screws as you can see below. I used 4 screws on the longer sides and 3 on the shorter sides, alternating which side of the hole the screw is placed on so that it can’t slide in one direction or another.
Attach the Casters: use the same 3/4″ self-tapping screws and overlap your screw heads to the caster plate in an alternating pattern just as you did in the previous step. They should sit in each corner. Mine required fastening in a horizontal manner to fit the caster plate properly, but since the casters swivel this isn’t important.
You are now finished and I hope you enjoyed this project. If you have any questions along the way please feel free to contact me via email at firstname.lastname@example.org or through my site, TheDesignConfidential.com. I am here to help you through the building process and hope to make it a pleasant and fun experience for you!
More Guest Posts:
- How to Paint a Metal Gate – A DIY Guide
- Guest Post: When and How to Use Primer
- DIY Project: Replacing a Ceiling Fan