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What mm thickness do I choose when I buy vinyl flooring?

What mm thickness do I choose when I buy vinyl flooring?

Vinyl plank flooring is available in a number of thicknesses ranging from 2mm to 8mm+ thick. When you buy vinyl flooring it can be difficult to decide which one is right for you.

Just as laminate flooring, the thicker the floor, the sturdier it is, but this is not the main factor in determining durability. When choosing a vinyl flooring thickness, there are a few things to consider. Keep reading to find out what questions to ask.

Vinyl Flooring Thickness

Vinyl flooring comes in thicknesses ranging from 2mm to 8mm+. The biggest factor to keep in mind is that the thickness does not determine durability – the wear layer does. With that said, the thickness is an important factor to consider. There are several important questions you must ask yourself when deciding which thickness will be right for you:

  • Where am I installing?
  • Will there be a lot of foot traffic in this area?
  • What type of subfloor do I have?
  • What condition is my subfloor in?
  • What type of vinyl do I have?

As a general rule, a thicker vinyl will provide more stability and comfort underfoot. So if you are looking for flooring to refresh your low traffic bedroom, a thinner vinyl plank flooring will work great for you. For areas that have more traffic and usage, such as entryways and hallways, you will want to choose thicker floor.

Type of Vinyl

With new advances in the vinyl industry, there are several types of vinyl floors that will impact your decision when it comes to thickness and durability. There are basic LVT’s and there are new, engineered vinyls. Floors with an engineered rigid core construction will have a more dimensionally stable core than a standard LVT.

With the rigid core constructions, you can find floors from 4mm to 8mm+. Although a rigid core vinyl may be 4mm, it will have a solid construction, which differs from the bendable LVT. When it comes to a rigid core vinyl, thickness isn’t as much of a factor, since the core is constructed with durability in mind.

Type of Subfloor

Your subfloor is also a very important part of choosing the thickness as well. If you have an even concrete subfloor, you can get a thinner vinyl flooring. This is because your subfloor is sturdy enough that you don’t need the extra support. However, if you subfloor is a thin, creaking hardwood, you should opt for the thicker vinyl for added stability and support.

Different vinyl flooring thicknesses
Different vinyl flooring thicknesses

Vinyl Flooring Wear Layer

The durability of vinyl plank flooring is determined by the wear layer. When shopping for vinyl plank flooring, pay also attention to the wear layer. Just like the thickness, the thicker the wear layer, the more durable the floor will be. Make sure to choose features of the flooring that’s right for you and your application, using the same questions posed above.

The wear layer is the protective coating on top of the decorative layer of the vinyl flooring. The most popular is a urethane-based layer that protects the floor against scratches, stains, and scuff marks. The wear layer keeps the original look of the floor longer, providing a maintenance-free finish.

Vinyl flooring cutaway layers diagram
Vinyl Floor Layer Diagram courtesy of processsystems.sandvick.com

Final Tips

If you are installing in a high traffic area, it is recommended you choose a thicker vinyl floor as it will provide more sturdiness and support. Thicker vinyl floors are also more forgiving to imperfect subfloors. If you are concerned about your subfloor, choose a thicker floor, however we always suggest to install new floors a subfloor that is even, clean and dry.

Don’t forget that vinyl plank flooring may require a moisture barrier Visqueen Underlayment, especially if you are installing over a concrete subfloor. This underlayment will prevent any moisture from the subfloor from coming up into your floor. In the case of glue down vinyl flooring, no underlayment is required.

Remember these tips and choosing the right thickness of vinyl flooring will be an absolute breeze!

Still have questions? Leave them in the comments below and we will be happy to answer them!

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130 comments

  1. Avatar

    We are installing Vinyl floor plank in our condo of 1425 ft. It is in Canada but we are on the 2nd floor in a 4 floor complex The biggest room is 15 by 19 living room with a 10 foot kitchen flow through Do we need transitions.. Our installer is suggesting it but it is really a constant heat environment

    • Alana Kane

      Hi William, thanks for the question. We recommend adding a transition when flooring is going to be floating in a space 30′ or longer with no transition. If I am understanding correctly, it will be about 29′ total with the living room and kitchen combined, correct? This is right on the mark of recommending a transition. If you do not want to use transitions, it will be very important to add .5″ of an expansion gap and ensure the home temperature will be consistent. The larger the area, the more possibility for floating issues, as it acts as one big piece together.

  2. Avatar

    Hi. I am installing an Everest vinyl plank in my condo. It is 5mm and has a 2mm ixpe underlayment attached. Due to condo board regs they may not ok the product without another acceptable underlayment placed beneath it. Firstly would this compromise the stability of the flooring and secondly is there any way of knowing what the sound rating would be on existing product?

    • Alana Kane

      Hi Rick, thanks for the question. I would recommend reaching out to the manufacturer of Eveerst to get their sound rating information. An SPC has a rigid core that will help with the sound reduction and the underlayment should also add sound dampening. We don’t recommend using two underlayments.

  3. Avatar

    Hello! I have read many, many, many articles about LVP and I haven’t found the answers I need yet!

    Ok, so my husband and I are looking to lay down some LVP throughout the entire main floor of our bungalow – approximately 1800 square feet. We currently have 12″x12″ ceramic tile with grout lines in about 50% of the house. We have hardwood in the living room/dining room and engineered hand scraped bamboo flooring in the three bedrooms. The flooring in the two spare rooms are floating and the flooring in the master bedroom was nailed down because my husband is in a wheelchair and we didn’t want it to shift.

    Can I lay a rigid core 4mm or 5mm LVP with an attached underlay over all of the flooring without tearing any of the old flooring out or going over the grout lines? I know if we did the thin flexible flooring we would have to in order to avoid telegraphing however, is the 4mm-5mm flooring with they attached underlay thick enough to not have any telegraphing from the grout lines or the hand scraped bamboo flooring? Will this LVP hold up to my husband’s wheelchair if it is just floating over existing flooring? Can you put a washer/dryer, fridge, stove and dishwasher on top of this as well? We are getting new cabinets in the kitchen also but I am assuming I would need to install them first and then lay the flooring up to the cabinets and that they would not be able to be installed on top.

    What thickness of wear layer should I be looking for? Do you have any specific recommendations?

    ANYTHING else you can possibly think of that I would need to know/consider, would be great! Thank you!!

    • Alana Kane

      Hi Michele, I hope I can help! We don’t recommend putting a floating floor on top of another floating floor. The subfloor should always be well adhered and have no chance of moving. With hardwoods, there is a chance of expansion and contraction. For the tiles, you would just need to fill in the grout lines with a leveling compound. For the wheel chair, I would recommend a rigid core vinyl that can be glued down. This will prevent any vibration and movement from the wheelchair from affecting the flooring. A rigid core SPC or WPC floor will have a strong core to stand up to the usage. For the appliances, yes, you can put them on top. For the cabinets, always install them before the flooring. Flooring will go around it. The wear layer should be at least .3mm (12mil) – .5mm (20 mil) for the wheel chair usage. I would recommend going with a COREtec One floor, as you can glue or float it and it has a rigid core construction. Feel free to order a free sample! https://www.bestlaminate.com/search-by-brand/coretec/coretec-one/. If you have any other questions, feel free to give us a call at 800-520-0961.

  4. Avatar

    Living in a condo building, fourth floor, which mm should be purchased to eliminate sound traveling to the condo below me? I will be using an underlayment also, so please suggest the best to use.

  5. Avatar

    What type of vinyl flooring plank thickness would you recommend for timber framed insulated log cabin on concrete base floor.

    • Alana Kane

      Hi Neil, thanks for your question. This is personal preference and it depends on what type of vinyl you’re looking for. If you want a softer feel under foot, you could opt for an SPC or WPC rigid core vinyl with an underlayment. These have a sturdy core and tend to be 4mm – 8mm. If you want a regular 4mm LVT, it will take on more of a hard feel with a concrete subfloor, but you could opt for an underlayment. We have some awesome Bestlaminate brand vinyls that are durable, sturdy and have added underlayment for comfort. You can order some free samples here: https://www.bestlaminate.com/search-by-brand/bestlaminate-1/vinyl/

  6. Avatar

    I am looking at putting in lux vinyl planks, my living room and Kitchen floor are the same room and currently have carpet and linoleum in the kitchen. Is it possible to pull the carpet put down an underlayment to the kitchen area to level and lay the vinal over the linoleum?

    • Alana Kane

      Hi Eric, thanks for the question. When it comes to a vinyl, you can only use an underlayment that is 1-1.5mm, which isn’t very much. I am assuming you currently have a transition strip between the two materials. If you only want to have underlayment on one half of the floor, I worry that the joint integrity may be compromised when they join from kitchen to living room. My recommendation would be to keep the transition strip between the rooms and the height difference will be transitioned that way.

  7. Avatar

    I am having vinyl plank flooring put in a basement bedroom and family room. It was previously carpeted and the carpet strips along the perimeter of the rooms is pulled up, however. they were nailed down. Do I have to pull the nails out of the cement and fill in the holes with a cement repair compound or can I just pound the nails level with the cement floor?

    • Alana Kane

      Hi Jan, good question. As long as your subfloor is level, you shouldn’t have any issues. If you’re able to pound the nails and there is no height difference, then that would be fine. If you have some leveling issues, a cement compound should do the trick.

  8. Avatar

    Thanks for pointing out that vinyl flooring planks with an engineered rigid core construction will have more dimensional stability than the standard vinyl. My husband and I want to replace our flooring, and I’ve heard vinyl plank flooring is a good option because it’s low maintenance. I didn’t know there were different types and that some were stronger than others, so I’m glad you explained that here!

  9. Avatar

    I am installing the flooring in the basement over concrete. I was thinking about a 7mm or 8mm floor with cork attached.
    Do I still need underlayment? Is 6.5mm too thin for a basement that is high traffic?

  10. Avatar

    I want to install LVP in my Bonus room above our heated garage. The floor is insulated with a 3/4″ plywood subfloor in the main area a d an OSB subfloor in bathroom. I would like to heat the bonus room with an electric radiant heat that would go under the LVP. Is that possible? Is there a specific type of backing on the LVP I should use or should I get a type of LVP without backing and put a separate cork underlayment down, put the electric radiant heat on that so I can notch in the probes, and then the LVP? Or do you have other suggestions. Thanks

  11. Avatar

    Can click flooring be installed over ceramic tile? My contractor says yes. He said he would grout the joints in the ceramic tile, install a membrane and then a relatively thin click flooring. The area to be floored is a kitchen. Thickness of the flooring could be thicker if so advised.
    Please give your advice. Thank you. Ron

    • Alana Kane

      Hi Ron, thanks for the question! Yes, you can install click flooring over ceramic when you grout the joints. The thickness is your personal preference. A thicker floor can feel more sturdy and cushioned underfoot. Let us know if we can help you find a particular floor!

  12. Avatar

    Hello!!! Gregg here.. I am lookin to have my kitchen dining room and 2 bathroom floors done not big areas by any stretch but was gonna go with a vinyl product but I’m not sure what mm I should go with as I’ve been told glue down is the way to go but see some unilock snap together type of vinyl flooring with a higher mm and now I’m confused….may I get your input on the subject… thanks a bunch!!!

    • Alana Kane

      Hey Gregg! There are a lot of options out there, so I can imagine it is a tough decision. Glue down or click are good options for you, and it mostly comes down to your preference, comfort needs and budget. A thicker floor can feel softer and more sturdy underfoot. You can take a look at our options and order free samples of the ones you like: https://www.bestlaminate.com/vinyl-plank-flooring/ ! Feel free to give us a call as well and we’d be happy to point you in a good direction – 800-520-0961.

  13. Avatar

    Hi all, thanks for all the great comments and suggestions. I am planning on installing waterproof LVP in a 1200 sq. ft. single story ground floor condo in Florida with concrete subfloors. The condo consists of a family room/dining area, kitchen, 2 bedrooms, 2 baths, a hallway, a small laundry room and closets. I’m planning on installing one common floor throughout with no transitions.

    My biggest interest is to have a soft floor to walk on as I have bad feet. I would prefer to install a thicker floor (6-8 mm) with the underlayment already attached (for simplicity of installation) but would this give me the softest feel or would I be better off going with a thinner floor (4-5 mm) and installing a separate underlayment? If I go with a floor that already has the underlayment attached, what would be the best underlayment option for me given my interest in the softest feeling floor (foam, cork or something else)?

    Also, given the size of the area I’m doing can I go with a floating floor (I really don’t want any transitions) or would you recommend going with an adhesive installation?

    Lastly, I was advised by one expert to NOT use a floating floor in the laundry room (it’s really a laundry closet as it’s just barely big enough to hold the washer and dryer) due to the movement of the washing machine (given the potential for the floor to move under it) and instead was advised to use ceramic tile for this area, which I did not want to have to do (I wanted the same floor throughout and do not like the idea of having a second type of flooring). If this truly is a concern could I alleviate the movement potential in this one small space by using a transition piece in the doorway and/or maybe giving the border walls a little more “expansion” space to compensate for the potential movement of the washing machine? What is your opinion of this?

    Thank you in advance for your response.

    • Alana Kane

      Hi Rick, thanks for the question! You should be fine with using a LVP with attached underlayment. I think you’d be surprised at how cushioned it feels! Our Bestlaminate SPC’s with attached underlayment are very soft underfoot. If you go with a WPC or SPC product, this will feel more stable as well. You can do a floating floor in your home, however, transitions would be required if you have over 30′ with no stopping. A glue down product is best in large, open spaces. As far as the washing machine, yes, a transition piece would be a good idea here if you are floating the floor! Just leave a bit extra expansion gap and you should have no problems. If you plan to glue the floor, just continue that in your washing machine.

      Feel free to check out our LVPs with attached underlayment here: https://www.bestlaminate.com/vinyl-plank-flooring/search-by-features/attached-underlayment/. Let us know if we can help with anything else!

  14. Avatar

    We live in a old farm house, nothing is square. Our entry way is used very heavely because we have two dogs and are full time grain and livestock farmers. What type of flooring should I be considering.

    • Tyler

      Hey Paula, I would suggest using luxury vinyl as it is 100% waterproof. I would suggest getting about 10% extra for waste then since you will have a lot of odd cuts.

  15. Avatar

    We want to install Vinyl Planks 6.5mm in a 11 hundred sq foot space over cement. My installer said it should be glued down because of the size but how do we put underlay if it is to be glued.

    • Alana Kane

      Hi Carol, great question! With a vinyl plank that is glued down, you would not use an underlayment. And your installer is correct, with that large space, you are best with gluing it down. If you’re set on using an underlayment and floating your installation, you will need to add a transition piece every 30ft. Hope that helps!

      • Avatar

        Hi, I just read you reply on floating vs glue down.
        We just had LVP put down in an 900sgft area with is floated, there is not transition piece is this going to lead to problems?

        • Tyler

          Hi John – it could be an issue depending on how far your longest spans are. I would recommend contacting the manufacturer to double check their guidelines.

  16. Avatar

    I have a small home near Phoenix, AZ that is only occupied during the winter and not temperature-controlled during the summer. Indoor temps during the summer reach ~ 110 degrees F.
    I would like to install vinyl plank flooring or other water-resistant laminate flooring in a small, 3/4 bathroom.
    The sub-floor is OSB with a ventilated crawl space beneath it.
    12″ vinyl floor tile was glued to the OSB in the bathroom during construction in 2002 but the tile has released from the adhesive, I would assume as a result of the extreme heat.
    I plan to remove the 12″ vinyl tile but not the adhesive that is firmly stuck to the OSB. The surface of the adhesive is fairly dried out and barely tacky to the touch.
    I also plan to remove the toilet and reinstall over the new flooring. This concerns me a bit since the toilet will basically pin the flooring down in that area, preventing it from moving with any needed expansion or contraction.
    What recommendations do you have for a flooring choice and method of installation?
    Thank you

    • Tyler

      Hey Don. In this instance you are going to want to glue down any flooring that will go in the bathroom. Floating floors need to be temperature controlled, and the extreme heat will ruin and buckle the floor. By gluing it down you are ensuring that it does end up staying in place.

  17. Avatar

    Hi, we are remodeling our kitchen and my contractor is trying to talk us out of using Porcelain tile and instead going with LVP. In addition to the kitchen floor we need to cover an adjacent set of stairs and landing that leads to the basement. All of these areas get pretty high traffic. I much prefer the look of stone or tile, especially on the kitchen floor but don’t want tile on steps. I have concerns about the LVP as I have read so many horror stories and terrible reviews about many different brands. I was actually thinking about porcelain tile for the kitchen and the LVP for the stairs but I can’t find material that matches well enough to pull it off. Any suggestions?

    • Tyler

      Hey GS! If you are asking for an impartial opinion you may not get one as a majority of our sales come from vinyl flooring. Overall vinyl is a better and more durable product than porcelain. A simple install, commercial grade durability and the list goes on and on. Trust brand that have good AND bad reviews and how issues were solved. A lot of horror stories come from companies that refuse to help their customers.

      • Avatar

        I have Luan flooring and would like to install LVP in the kitchen and bathroom. Do I need padding or is the current underpayment sufficient. Also what thickness do you recommend in these areas?

        • Tyler

          Does the floor already have a pad attached? If so you do not need anything else! Thickness is not an important factor when determining what vinyl to buy!

  18. Avatar

    I have a mobile home with particle board subfloor. The floors are wavey. Would you recommend vinyl plank snap in place flooring?
    Any comments on the bottom or back of the plank, cork or rubber backing it something else?

    • Tyler

      Hey Randy,

      If you are looking to do a floating floor, vinyl would work or a 12mm laminate would help as well. If you are doing a vinyl flooring, do one with a pad attached already, or put a pad down first!

  19. Avatar

    I don’t like the glued vinyl laminate currently installed in the washroom floor, foyer and kitchen – The patterned color bothers me. So, I want to install click interlocking vinyl tile over the current vinyl laminate. What are your perspective about this – Could this work, or should I use tiles instead for the washroom since it’s a water/moisture area. Also, would there be a problem with interlocking vinyl tile moving away eventually and accumulating dirt between the space? I’m a total novice.

    • Tyler

      Hey Carol, I would highly recommend putting in a floating vinyl floor right over top of what is currently down. This is going to be 100% waterproof and in my opinion the best overall option for you!

  20. Avatar

    I read that vinyl plank flooring is susceptible to fading. My apartment is sunny. Any idea how long it would take to visibly show fading?

    • Tyler

      Hey Ruth, I have actually not heard this. The picture that is laminated should not fade away just by the sun. Heavy exposure to cleaning, rugs, etc may cause that but not direct sunlight.

  21. Avatar

    Can I instal vinyl flooring on top of ceramic flooring?

  22. Avatar

    Hi, great little article.

    We are swapping from carpet to LVP (about 6mm total including the attached underlayment).

    We are concerned about the airborne noise since we are swapping the current carpet which had a 9mm underlay (so about 12mm total minimum) to just 6mm flooring – half the current thickness. Is this something we should be concerned about? Will more noise travel through, or will the vinyl properties provide the same level of acoustic barrier?

    If more noise is likely, can we add an underlayer to the entire subfloor (timber) considering the LVP already has an attached underlayment? Or is underlay against underlay not a good idea?

    Thanks

    • Tyler

      Hey David, thanks for reaching out. In your case I would recommend putting a cork underlay down first which will help noise reduction for your installation. Doubling up on padding is a no-no, and before purchasing anything, we would recommend contacting the manufacturer as well to make sure they are okay with this process.

  23. Avatar

    Can you install click lock laminate or vinyl directly on top of an unsightly, glued industrial type carpet (no plush factor-just hard).

    And if so (or even if not-as this is my only option) is it best to use
    a wider or thinner plank?

    • Avatar

      Hi Elle, thanks for reaching out. The short answer is no, we generally do not recommend installing any type of vinyl on carpet as it could compromise the locking system of your flooring. However, you can go ahead and install any type of laminate directly on the carpet, just be sure to use a moisture barrier if there is a cement subfloor. Give us a call if you have any further questions, 800-520-0961.

  24. Avatar

    I am considering installing LVP flooring in a bathroom. Since this is a bathroom I would like it to be waterproof. Currently there is a tile floor. My main concern is the telegraphing of the grout lines through the tile. What tile characteristics should I look for to prevent telegraphing. Anything that I can do in preparation or installation to prevent. Thank You.

    • Avatar

      Hi John, thanks for reaching out! If your grout line is 3/16″ deep or less, and the vinyl is 4mm or thicker, you can go ahead and install the vinyl as is. Otherwise, we recommend filling in the grout lines to ensure you have a smooth surface for your LVP installation. Please let us know if you have any other questions!

      • Avatar

        How are they filled in?

        • Avatar

          You can go ahead and use grout or a floor leveling compound. Your local home improvement store should be able to recommend the best product to use, but the goal is to have a smooth surface to install the vinyl. Hope that helps!

  25. Avatar

    We have an open worship space that is about 4000sf in need of flooring. Since there will be fluctuations in temperature and moisture, vinyl wood flooring is recommended by most flooring dealers. Also glue down is a must in this huge space and absolutely no clicking system and laminate is recommended. I would like some thoughts on this.

    • Alana Kane

      Hi Kim, thanks for reaching out. Glue down vinyl is the best option for you with these circumstances. Since it’s such a large space, a floating floor would need several transitions. By using a glue down, you’ll have a secure floor that will not move with temperature changes. It will also be waterproof!

  26. Avatar

    The vinyl plank we selected for our new home is out of stock. The one we would like to use in its place is 6 mm. The original was 8mm. Will that be a problem? The contractor has left a half inch clearance for the floor.

    • Alana Kane

      Hi Susan, thanks for the question. You will have a slight difference in height, but you could add underlayment underneath to add 2mm of height. The biggest difference may be in the locking system.

  27. Avatar

    i am getting .30 mm of wear thickness with LVP- is this okay???

    • Alana Kane

      Hi Dee, yes this is a very strong wear layer! It will be perfect for busy households and even light commercial usage. If you have any other questions, please let us know!

  28. Avatar

    Our installer is suggesting a glue down vinyl plank. It is 2.5 mm thickness with a 12 mil wear layer. I have no idea what this means. The reason he is suggesting glue down is because of the possiblity of the click lock coming apart. We have a level subfloor. We have small children and dogs. Is this a decent combination? It seems very thin to me although I really like pattern of the vinyl.

    • Alana Kane

      Hi Tesa, thanks for your question! Yes, this will be a very thin plank, but with a durable wear layer. We typically recommend a click vinyl versus a glue down and here’s some reasons why. First, you will be able to have a thicker plank. These planks either come with attached underlayment or can have underlayment installed for added comfort. It won’t feel like you’re walking on a super hard surface! The installation is easier and in our opinion, the click vinyls look a lot more beautiful and wood/tile like than a glue down. Click vinyls can come apart, but that is pretty uncommon. A vinyl can move with temperature changes, so if you’re installing in an un-temperature regulated space, then a glue down would be best here. If you want to take a look at some click vinyls, you can check out our selection here: https://www.bestlaminate.com/vinyl-plank-flooring/

  29. Avatar

    i’ve been told by 2 local flooring salesmen that I can glue down a commercial thickness LVF in my cement floored garage and park cars on it.Do y’all agree…

    • Alana Kane

      Hi David, thanks for reaching out. We have never tested this out, so we cannot give you a solid answer, but it could be possible. If the planks do not have a tongue and groove and you’re gluing them down, you are less likely to have any separation at the joints. Just be aware that this usage will probably void the warranty.

  30. Avatar

    Hi, we are looking to put a vinyl click in place flooring in our cottage. It is a seasonal cottage and we do not heat the cottage during the winter. Any suggestions on what vinyl flooring would work the best with heat/cold expansion? Thanks!

  31. Avatar

    Hi. I am nearing the final decision on LVP, but need a confirming nudge. After several weeks of research this novice is overloaded. I started with big box store products, but read in many places that a 20 mil wear layer was the minimum to consider. Their 20 mil options were limited and after comparing them with various manufacturers and their varying lines, and without belaboring the process, I’ve settled on Coretec Plus because of the wear layer, thickness, and cork backing. This is for a 260 SF kitchen, 2 adults, no animals, overlaying existing vinyl sheet. My fear is the height (8mm) of the new floor versus the baseboard and transitions to other rooms will appear unsightly. The Coretec reducers appear to solve our Vinyl-to-slate and Vinyl-to-hardwood transitions. The existing carpet transition will be slightly higher than the new floor, and Coretec reducer or T-mold won’t work.
    Questions:
    1.) Does anyone have an opinion regarding the height of the vinyl plank versus existing flooring in adjoining rooms?
    2.) Since this floor is floating do I need a track between the carpet and plank for the plank to be inserted? Or can the plank be bumped up against the carpet tack strips and covered with a generic carpet trim strip?
    3.) Baseboard height will loose 8mm (5/16″) because I will have to raise the 1/4 round. Should I consider removing the baseboard and raising it also? What do professional installers do when encountering this?
    4.) I want the floor to last, and don’t want to do it again in 5 years. Am I being overly concerned about the wear layer?
    Thank you in advance for any advice or thoughts regarding this project.

    • Alana Kane

      Hi Al, thank you for your questions! Most homes will have a different height between floors, especially when going from tile or hardwood to another surface. I am not sure how much of a difference you are talking, but it should be fine with a molding. You will just have a slight overlap and transition. To answer your second question, yes, you will need a trim with a track to be a support for the flooring. The COREtec moldings will come with this track. The baseboards should be removed, as you will leave a small expansion gap that will need to be covered with a molding. Lastly, the wear layer is a commercially rater wear layer and will hold up well in your home for years. I hope this helps! If you have any other questions, let us know.

      • Avatar

        Thank you Alana. I don’t think my question #3 was clear. Currently the baseboard height is 3″ from floor with shoe mold leaving 2 1/4″ of visible baseboard face above the shoe mold. I plan to remove shoe mold and replace it covering the expansion gap. This will reduce the baseboard face to 2″. Would a pro installer recommend removing the baseboard and raising it to maintain the 2 1/4″ face, or is the 1/4″ loss acceptable? I suppose it comes down to a matter of taste, but I’m curious what a pro would suggest.
        Since you invited more questions, here goes:
        5.) I’ve heard the Coretec transition tracks are fragile and may break in difficult installation cases. Versatrim offers a metal track, and corresponding Coretec color. Is there a reason not to consider Versatrim?
        6.) After viewing many tubes, it appears scoring and snapping Coretec Plus is doable. This solves the cross cuts, but what about the length-wise (rip) cuts? Will length-wise scoring and snapping work easily? I’m considering purchasing a Skill flooring saw for this job. My hand power tools could suffice, but a combo table-miter saw seems ideal for this. Any experience with this?
        7.) Large refrigerator barely fits into the existing space (height is ok). It also doesn’t roll sideways. Is it ok to roll out fridge as far as I can, complete the flooring in that half of the room including that space, and roll the fridge back over the new floor before completing the rest of the room? Obviously, I’ll need to protect the flooring edge when rolling, but what type of protectors would you recommend for heavy appliances sitting on the LVP?
        Thanks again for your advice.

        • Alana Kane

          Hi Al, thanks for clarifying! I am not a professional installer, but I would probably recommend doing the easiest route with the baseboard. You risk chipping or damage by removing it, so you may just want to play it safe considering it’s only a 1/4″ difference. As far as moldings go, you can definitely go with a Versatrim. We stick with brand on brand since it will generally be a closer match, but Versatrim has several options. As far as cutting goes, a saw will be the easiest option. A table-miter saw would be a great option. For your fridge, yes you can install then slide it back into place. We recommend putting heavy duty cardboard down to slide it into place so you do not scratch or dent the flooring. Most of the time, appliances will be fine sitting right on top of the floor. If you’d like to add coasters, just standard furniture coasters will be fine! Let me know if you need any additional clarification!

          • Avatar

            Alana, thank you. You’ve been very helpful in addressing these questions. I think I’m ready to pull the trigger. BTW, I found shoe mold that is 1/2″ high and 3/4″ wide at HD. Haven’t decided on pine painted to match baseboard, or oak stained to match floor. But, the baseboard face should end up having nearly the same exposure. Thanks again for your informative responses. I may be back again once I get started.

          • Alana Kane

            No problem! We’ll be here if you have any questions. Good luck with your project!

  32. Avatar

    We live in Eastern Canada where, needless to say, it is cold. We are building a new house and plan to put a vinyl plank floor in the basement. Our intention is to have heated floors-either electric or hot water. Is there a problem putting vinyl flooring over in-floor heating and, is there a preference for either the hot water or electric systems available?

  33. Avatar

    Am looking to install laminate vinyl flooring in my home; is 6 mil wear layer enough or is it to thin/low quality for a home. we don’t have pets and although we are always walking through house, seldom wear shoes in house

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    Hi I want to put vinyl flooring in my house which is for 2 adults. Its on a concrete slab. Will 2mm be ok?

    • Avatar

      Hi Andrew, thanks for your comment. When purchasing vinyl flooring, you should pay attention to the wear layer of the floor instead of the thickness. Generally speaking, the higher the wear layer, the tougher the flooring will be. If you have a space that will need a high resistance to scratches and wear, a higher wear layer, such as a 12 mil or 20 mil, would be best for your application. Commercial vinyl flooring applications will usually require a 20 mil top layer. You can learn more about the wear layer here: https://www.bestlaminate.com/blog/wear-layer-vinyl-flooring/

  35. Avatar

    I am having the basement floor done in LVF by the builder. They are using Fuzion Flooring “Woodlands Coolection” 0.2mm/8mil………………………is that a good choice?

  36. Avatar

    We want to install luxury vinyl planking in our home. If wear layer is crucial to durability, what thickness do you recommend for residential flooring? 6 mil? 12?

    • Alana Kane

      Hi Christel, great question! Both a 6 mil and 12 mil are commercial grade, so either will work well in a residential home. If you have a very busy home, I’d recommend going with the 12 mil.

  37. Avatar

    I am planning on putting vinyl flooring throughout my house so it will be under a refrigerator. How well does this stand up under a large, heavy, stocked refrigerator?

    • Avatar

      Hi Sharon, thank you for your comment. If you are installing a glue down vinyl, you will have no issues with your refrigerator or any large furniture and appliances on top of the floor. If you are installing a floating vinyl floor, we recommend to be cautious with heavy objects on the floor. Your flooring will expand and contract with temperature changes, and you must be cautious of heavy objects that could potentially pin the floor down and prevent it from floating. Most manufacturers recommend heavy furniture and appliances should be equipped with non staining large surface floor protectors. We advise to double check with the manufacturer of your floor prior to installation just to be sure it is safe and your warranty will not be voided. If you have any other questions or would like to discuss this in more detail, please give us a call at 1-800-520-0961. Thank you!

  38. Avatar

    Will a 4mm Vinyl plank flooring work on a plywood floor. Do I need to glue it down.

    • Alana Kane

      Hi Kelly, great question! A 4mm vinyl will be fine on a plywood floor. If it is a click lock vinyl, you will not have to glue it. It will be a floating floor system. It should tell you if it is a glue down plank (GDP) or a click lock. Hope this helps!

  39. Avatar

    I am looking for recommendations on LVP for my basement on the thickness that would be ideal. Concrete subfloor, and being on the east coast, the temperature drops to 10deg where I am at.

  40. Avatar

    Hi im about to build 7 small lot subdivision homes and a 4 unit apartment building. What type and thickness of wpc should be used for these 2 projects? Thank you

  41. Avatar

    Hi. we are in the process of renovating our cottage and are thinking of installing vinyl laminate planks in the bathroom. As the cottage floors are not insulated and winter temperatures can drop to well below freezing will vinyl laminate planks stand up to the cold temperatures?

    • Avatar

      Hi Joanne – Thank you for your question. Vinyl planks still need to be in a temperature controlled environment, otherwise the extreme temperatures could void your warranty. If you still want to install waterproof floors and risk the possible buckling that could happen to your flooring, the best type of flooring you could use would be a WPC (wood-plastic composite) flooring – like COREtec – as it does not expand and contract nearly as much as vinyl planks or laminate planks would.

      If you need help purchasing a floor, please feel free to give us a call at 800-520-0961 or email us at support@bestlaminate.com.

  42. Avatar

    I need to install new flooring over my terrazzo floor. It has to go in 2 hallways and Kitchen. What do you suggest I use. Oh I live in Florida, if that matters

  43. Avatar

    In the past 5 years we installed 12mm laminate wood look flooring. Some areas are not completely level and we did do our best to level prior to installation. The 12mm was forgiving in those areas that were not perfect. However, due to water damage we want to install vinyl planks but they only come in 8mm as the thickest available. Will this type of flooring be forgiving in those areas I mentioned?

    • Avatar

      Hi Jenny – First, we would definitely recommend having a contractor to come out and level your sub-floor so you will have the most even base possible to install your new vinyl flooring. I am not sure if you have a wood or concrete sub-floor, but you should have a professional look at this issue.

      You then have two options for vinyl flooring:

      1) Install an 8mm floating vinyl flooring with a vinyl underlayment, such as Floor Muffler LVT or Perfect Mat LVT, installed underneath the flooring. The vinyl underlayment will also help mask any sub-floor imperfections, creating a smooth surface for your floating vinyl flooring.

      2) Install a glue down vinyl flooring. Having a glue down vinyl flooring will eliminate a lot of issues that a floating floor would have over an uneven sub-floor, because it’s adhered to the surface.

      If you have any further questions or would like to order some free samples to see the difference between vinyl flooring, please call us at 1-800-520-0961!

  44. Avatar

    I have concerns about my chairs and table in the kitchen leaving indentations when purchasing my new flooring. We are looking at vinyl, but are unsure what to buy regarding thickness. Suggestions? Someone in my family recently had a vinyl installed and their chairs are leaving major indentations.

    • Avatar

      Hi Tara – Adding felt pads to the bottom of heavy furniture, or furniture that gets moved around a lot, can help prevent indentations in vinyl flooring. It helps distribute the weight of the legs of furniture, helping lessen the chance of the indentations happening.

      While thickness helps play a role in whether your floor will dent easily, it is not the thing you should look for when choosing a durable vinyl. Choose a vinyl that has a wear layer of 0.5mm thickness for maximum durability. This is what protects your vinyl flooring from scratches and dents.

      If you need help finding the right floor for you, please give us a call at 1-800-520-0961 and we would be happy to assist you!

  45. Avatar

    Your video on luxury vinyl plank flooring states that vinegar kills more germs than bleach. The truth is vinegar is not registered as a disinfectant. Vinegar does not kill bacteria such as staphylococcus, which can be dangerous. Maybe she is confused with hydrogen peroxide, it has ingredients that are antimicrobial.

  46. Avatar

    We are planning on putting nuvelle density plus vinyl floor over tile in our home. A pad will be put under the vinyl. What thickness should we use and is nuvelle a good product?

    • Avatar

      Hi Robert – Unfortunately, we do not know much about Nuvelle vinyl flooring as we do not carry it at Bestlaminate, so we cannot say if it’s a good product. Since you are installing over a sturdy tile subfloor, you can install a thinner vinyl if you wish. If you are looking for durability, consider a thicker wear layer, as this is what determines the scratch and wear resistance of the flooring – not the thickness. Please feel free to reply to this comment if you have any further questions!

  47. Avatar
    Janiece Pustejovsky

    We are wanting to place vinyl planks in our laundry room. The subfloor is wood. What thickness do you suggest?

    • Alana Kane

      Hi Janiece! Thanks for the question. The thickness of your vinyl isn’t a big concern here. Anything above 4mm should work for you, and be able to support any washers or dryers. Let us know if we can answer any other questions!

  48. Avatar

    I am wondering about the connections. Is there a preferred and more durable type of connection and what should I look for? I’m told that because I’m in a wheelchair I should glue down the planks that have no cushion because of the torque when I turn. Is gluing necessary or will the click planks be enough?

    • Avatar

      Great question, Ken. When looking for flooring that will durable enough to withstand the added wear that a wheelchair will put on a floor, it’s highly recommended to look for a commercial grade laminate flooring or a commercial grade vinyl flooring. These floors are meant to withstand the kind of traffic that you would find in a commercial setting, such as a clothing store, restaurant, or hotel lobby! The locking system on these types of planks should be enough to withstand the torque of your wheelchair when you turn, but if you are in doubt, you could also get a glue down vinyl flooring, or glue the locking system of the laminate flooring together.

      There are also brands, such as Alloc and Quick-Step that have ADA Approved laminate flooring collections, which takes the guesswork out of whether a floor is going to stand up to your wheelchair!

      I hope this helps you! If you have any further questions as to which flooring will be best for your home, please feel free to email us at support@bestlaminate.com or give us a call at 1-800-520-0961 and our flooring experts will be happy to assist you!

  49. Avatar

    I live alone with dogs and cats. There is not a lot of traffic in my home. My floor is concrete. Would a 3mm thick flooring be suitable?

  50. Avatar

    I am a home builder in Texas. I am converting from hand scraped wood floors to vinyl planking in new spec homes. What wear layer would be suitable on a median priced new home? Also they will be laid on concrete slabs.Thanks

    • Avatar

      Excellent question, James! I would recommend a 12mil (0.30mm) wear layer. It’s a sturdy thickness for a wear layer and there’s a lot of design styles to choose from – which you might not get from thinner wear layers. It will also stand up to most kid and pet accidents. I am not sure how you are planning to install over the concrete slab, but if you are planning on floating the vinyl floor, you may want to consider adding an LVT underlayment, such as Perfect Mat or Floor Muffler LVT, to add some cushioning to the floor. Please feel free to call us at 1-800-520-0961 as we love to work with home builders and contractors! We even offer commercial project pricing on select floors!

  51. Avatar

    Hi, we have a 2 story home in Queensland Australia….I am wanting to replace all upstairs area with vinyl planks get rid of carpet due to allergies and we are concerned with the noise downstairs (bedrooms up and living down) the sub floor ( between floor) is chipboard. What thickness should we go ?
    Thank you for your help.

    • Avatar

      Hi Suzanne! We would recommend choosing the thickest possible vinyl available to you, which could be anywhere from 4mm to 8mm. You can also lay down a vinyl underlayment on top of the subfloor before you install your new vinyl floor to help with noise reduction between the two stories of your home. Good luck on your installation!

  52. Avatar

    My baseboards are approx. 1/2″ up from concrete slab.(IM IN FLORIDA)..Originally we were going to use porcelain floors which required a membrane to reduce cracking. I was told 12mm laminate would work with a vapor barrier to eliminate moving our baseboard. I really love the vinyl flooring but their all too thin (max 5mm?)and most say an underlayment should not be used. I do not want to use the half round molding to cover the difference in height. So my question is isn’t their a vinyl floor that would accommodate the height I need?

    • Alana Kane

      Hi Elaine, great question! This thickest vinyl product we carry is a WPC vinyl. Our Cortec WPC vinyl has an attached cork backing as underlayment, and is 8.5mm. We’re currently just adding these to the website, and will be on our website this week. This would be the best bet if you want the properties of a vinyl, with the thickness of a laminate!

  53. Avatar

    I recently purchased a 7.2 mm thick Vinyl Plank from Rona in Canada. My question is how does the product hold up next to a gas fire place. Can I install right up to the fireplace?

    • Alana Kane

      Hi Scotty, thanks for your question! The vinyl should be fine against the gas fireplace. If anything, the edges may get soft against the hot surface. Be sure to read the manufacturer instructions before you install to make sure that is the case with this specific laminate. You can also text a plank before you install to see how it reacts. Hope this helps!

  54. Avatar

    How can I compare thicknesses of LVT when one is listed as 2 mm and the other is described as 55 gauge?

    • Alana Kane

      Hi Melba, thanks for your question! Gauge measurements are used differently in a variety of products, and can be fairly inaccurate when measuring thickness. We don’t typically see vinyl flooring measured this way. If you cannot find the thickness on the product, we would recommend looking for the mil number. This will give you the wear layer thickness, which is the most important aspect of vinyl durability. This will not give you the full board thickness, but it will signify the durability of flooring you are purchasing. You can learn more about wear layers here: https://www.bestlaminate.com/blog/wear-layer-vinyl-flooring/

      Here’s a reference of corresponding mil to mm comparisons when it comes to wear layer:
      0.1 mm = 4 mil
      0.3 mm = 12 mil
      0.5 mm = 20 mil
      0.7 mm = 28 mil
      1.0 mm = 40 mil

  55. Avatar

    What is the best vinyl plank flooring on the market. There are so many to choose from, I need help. Thank you

    • Avatar

      Hi, Betty! It really depends on what your needs are and where you are installing your flooring. Please give us a call at 1-800-520-0961 and we will be happy to help you!

  56. Avatar

    Most vinyl plank flooring companies say that using an underlayment voids the warranty. Since my floors are on a concrete slab, they get cold in the winter, and I’d like to have at least a modest underlayment to provide some insulating factor. Is there a vinyl plank brand that allows for an underlayment?

    • Alana Kane

      Hi Tim, thanks for the question! There are some brands that will allow an underlayment, such as Berry Alloc Dream Click, and they call out the usage of their brand specific underlayment. This is the only vinyl product we carry that calls out an underlayment. We also have one LVT specific underlayment that is only 1MM that works with most LVT floors and is thin enough to not obstruct the locking system. Hope that helps!

  57. Avatar

    I agree that if you are looking for flooring for your low traffic bedroom, a thinner vinyl plank flooring will work great. You also mention that if you have a concrete subfloor, you can choose a thinner vinyl. I think it’s a good idea to choose a neutral pattern on your vinyl so that it stays in style for many years to come.

  58. Tyler

    Hello there – when considering vinyl flooring, thickness is not the biggest factor. What you would want to look for is the thickness of the wear layer of the vinyl which is the top coat of the product!

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