Do I need underlayment to install vinyl plank flooring?

Do I need underlayment to install vinyl plank flooring?

Do I need underlayment to install vinyl plank flooring? This is a question we get daily! It is important to know if you need underlayment or not with a vinyl flooring installation. Unlike laminate flooring, most vinyl floors are designed to lay directly on top of the subfloor. The type of vinyl flooring and type of subfloor you have will determine if you are able to use a vinyl flooring underlayment.

Subfloor Considerations:

Before installing a vinyl floor, you will need to make sure your subfloor meets these requirements:

  • In good condition
  • Free of damages
  • Smooth
  • Clean & dust free

Concrete Subfloors:

If you are installing your vinyl plank flooring over a concrete subfloor, you may want to use an underlayment for three reasons. First, it will give you some added cushion to help make the floor softer to walk on. Second, you may want an extra vapor barrier above the subfloor to reduce any risk of moisture. Lastly, underlayments can provide thermal properties to help keep the flooring warmer in cold months.

Wood Subfloors:

For vinyl flooring installations over wood subfloors, you will not need to worry about a moisture barrier, but you may want an underlayment for added cushion or sound reduction. It may also be a requirement in certain HOA or apartment complexes to have a sound barrier with your flooring.

Existing Floors:

When you’re installing vinyl floors over an existing subfloor, such as tile or linoleum, you can use an underlayment for added cushion and sound reduction. Moisture will not be an issue for you in this case.

Keep in mind that an installation over tile should include filling in any grout lines and uneveness. Also, you will want to make sure the flooring is in good condition before installing over it.

Vinyl Flooring Differences:

After assessing your subfloor needs, it is important to know the different types of vinyl installation that are available. The type of vinyl will impact your decision whether you need to purchase underlayment to install vinyl flooring or not.

Compare Vinyl Flooring >

Click Lock Vinyl Plank Flooring

Click Lock Vinyl flooring has a locking system that is similar to laminate flooring, but it typically has a thinner construction. With new advances in luxury vinyl flooring, options now range from 2mm to 8mm+.

The rule of thumb is any vinyl over 4mm can have a vinyl specific underlayment. With thinner vinyl flooring construction, adding a foam underlayment can effect the locking system strength. Vinyl floors under 4mm should be installed right over the subfloor. If you have any areas on a concrete subfloor with moisture concerns, it is recommended to use a vapor barrier underlayment that will not add any cushion to the planks.

For click lock vinyls over 4mm, you’ll want to choose an underlayment specific to a vinyl floor, such as our Perfect Mat Underlayment or Floor Muffler. These underlayments are usually under 2mm. It is important to read the manufacturer instructions before installing an underlayment to ensure it will not void your warranty.

Using a vinyl flooring underlayment can help reduce noise, soften the feel under foot and aid in moisture protection.

WPC or SPC Vinyl Plank Flooring

Wood Plastic Composite (WPC) vinyl flooring and Stone Plastic Composite (SPC) vinyl flooring is the newest innovation in vinyl flooring. WPC and SPC vinyl are more dimensionally stable and usually come in a thickness of over 4mm. For click lock WPC and SPC vinyl flooring, you can install it with a vinyl flooring underlayment, or directly on top of the subfloor.

Higher end WPC and SPC vinyl floors may come with an attached underlayment. This typically adds cushion, a vapor barrier and sound reduction to the floor. If your vinyl already has an attached underlayment, you should not add any additional cushion to the planks.

Glue Down Vinyl Plank Flooring

Glue down vinyl plank flooring will not need an underlayment. You will install these planks by gluing them directly on top of the subfloor. It is very important to have a debris free and level subfloor for a glue down vinyl flooring installation!

Loose Lay Vinyl Plank Flooring

If you’re installing a loose lay vinyl plank floor, you will not need an underlayment. These can be installed directly on top of the subfloor without any other

Still have questions on if you need an underlayment to install vinyl plank flooring? Drop us a comment below!

Learn more about vinyl flooring:


  1. Thanks for your question, Gitika! There are a few important factors to consider in your scenario. First, the heating would likely be compromised due to the additional layer. Also, with the stock on vinyl, the adhesive may not dry or adhere properly due to the heat underneath, causing the flooring underneath to be sticky, should you ever choose to remove the stick on flooring. We would suggest using a click-lock vinyl plank flooring for this project as it would be a floating floor and eliminate the adhesive issue. This would also protect the flooring underneath.

  2. Hi I have a perfectly fine white tiled floor in my kitchen with u der floor heating ! Can I put stick on vinyl boards directly on it? It’s only because the white floor looks dirty every three hours as every crumb is visible on that surface. I don’t wanna lose the heating effect and most importantly, if we were to take this flooring out would it impact the white tiles underneath, i.e . Break them when we pull the two apart?

  3. Unfortunately you would not be able to do this without creating a problem for the future. First you should always check with the manufacturer to make sure you are able to install double underlayment (including pre attached pad). If you are able to use an additional pad with you pre-attached plank, we would recommend using a cork underlayment on the subfloor. This will absorb some of the footfall noise. However, no amount of underlayment will completely mute the sound of footfall.

  4. My current scenario: 2nd floor, bare osb subfloor and want to minimize footfall/impact noise. Because it is recommended to not install soft underlay under LVP wit pre-attached underlay, my thought was to install some closed cell padding THEN install (float?) plywood over the padding THEN install the LVP over the plywood – will this work?

  5. Hi RJ, Yes, we would recommend that you fix any of the cracks in the subfloor and generally level out the subfloor. If your LVP does not have a pre attached pad, we would recommend using an closed cell foam underlayment to help the floor float properly. We’d typically recommend using a 1mm to less foam pad like Bestlaminate IXPE Underlayment

  6. Hello, I purchased some 4.5mm LVP flooring to install in a 200sqft space. The sub-floor is concrete on grade which has previously been painted. My first question is, do I need to repair any hairline cracks that are in the concrete floor before installation? My second question is, is an underlayment necessary (I’m not worried about noise and heat loss)? I do have some 6mil plastic sheeting I could lay underneath as a vapor barrier, but the concrete has been painted previously as I said before. Is that overkill or not enough? Thank you in advance.

  7. Hi Shannon! The first thing we suggest is to contact the manufacturer about whether or not they allow for additional underlayment padding to be installed with their pre attached pad. (A lot of manufacturers void your warranty when you add additional padding.) When it comes to using luon boards, that should not be a problem because you are essentially replacing or reinforcing the current subfloor you have.

  8. Hi, I’d like to install luxury waterproof vinyl plank in a second floor bathroom with a wood subfloor. The planking has an attached underlayment, but I’m wondering if I should use an additional underlayment like luon because the subfloor was previously damaged by flooding and has been patched. Thank you!

  9. Hi Matt, Unfortunately we do not recommend installing underlayment under a floor that has pre-attached padding on the back of it. It would be too much cushion under foot and eventually break the locking systems. You may want to look into a radiant heat system. Most vinyl floorings are able to withstand those types of systems.

  10. Hi David, We would NOT recommend using a gym floor mat or 10mm foam padding under a vinyl floor. This would be way too much cushion under foot and it would cause the vinyl locking system to break as they are stepped on. Once the locking systems are broken, the planks will eventually buckle and separate from each other.

  11. Hello,
    We installed SPC vinyl flooring directly on our concrete basement floor. The SPC flooring is 5.5mm and has mold free backing attached. The manufacturer and the contractor both said we didn’t need to put anything else under it. We find the floor a bit cold. Is there anything we can put under it to make it warmer if we were to lift up all the planks? We don’t want to lose much height.
    Thank you.

  12. Hello I want to install a dance floor using vinyl planks and I need a cushioned subfloor, can I use any foam underlayment? Saw some waterproof gym mats 10mm thick EVA foam tiles that said you might be able to use as a subfloor to put over the concrete and install vinyl planks over the foam, is this true? Can I essentially use any gym foam mat 10mm thick as a subfloor to my vinyl dance floor?

  13. Hi Alex! After removing the carpet and linoleum, I would recommend using an asbestos encapsultant that will seal any remnants left of the asbestos. You would then be able to install a 1/4” plywood subfloor that will be ready for the new vinyl flooring.

  14. Bought an older house (1957) with carpet in the kitchen, which we want to replace with vinyl planks. The carpet is adhered to a layer of linoleum with black mastic, the linoleum is on top of wood sub-floor. Linoleum tested positive for asbestos (mastic did not). Removing the carpet will leave a thin layer of mastic on the linoleum. We were thinking of installing 1/4″ plywood over the mastic, then putting vinyl planks on top of the plywood. That we we have a flat firm surface for the planks and will encapsulate the asbestos. Will that work ok?

  15. Hi Serge! We would not recommend using a heat pad under a floating vinyl floor. Typically heat pad systems are used for floors that are adhered to the subfloor for example, ceramic tile. To help prep your subfloor, you would have to level out the cracks, gaps and holes with a liquid leveling agent that you can find at any hardware store.

  16. My goal is to install a vinyl floor plank with a heat flooring pad.
    2 questions:
    – can i use any vinyl plank with a heat pad? or is there restriction to worry about?
    – My project is on the second floor and the subfloor is an old wood plank subfloor with cracks, gaps and even holes. Any suggestions on how prepping the floor?
    I don’t think the self-leveler is an option because it’s a liquid.
    Thanks for your help.

  17. Hi Kristopher! You would have to check with the manufacturer of the flooring that you pick to see if it is able to have an additional underlayment under it without voiding the warranty. In cases of manufacturers like Coretec will allow an additional underlayment.

  18. Hi, I want to install a loose lay vinyl floor in my condo. However it needs to reach a certain STC and IIC rating. I know that an underlay isn’t required with the loose lay vinyl flooring; but can I add one anyways to reach the specific requirements? Or are there other options for sound proofing this type of floor.

  19. Hi Jacki! We recommend using a vapor barrier under the Coretec plank to make sure that there is no moisture that will rise up from the concrete and settle in the cork attached underlayment. View Vapor Barriers

  20. hello- does a concrete floor, installing COREtec Plus Enhanced Vinyl Flooring need a barrier underneath or is the plank setup and ready to install on concrete?

  21. Hi Lorena! You would be able to use a vapor barrier without a padding attached. We recommend using Visqueen in that case. You can view that product here: View Vapor Barriers

  22. We are looking to install 8mm LVP with cork backing. We want it to be flush with our 1/2 tile in the hall in order to have a low profile floor transition. It will be done over a concrete slab. Can we use an vapor barrier underlayment as well even though the LVP has a cork backing?

  23. Hi Derm! Unfortunately carpet padding is going to be much too soft for a vinyl floor to sit on top of. In most cases, vinyl floors can only be combined with 1-1.5mm condensed underlayment or cork underlayment. We would recommend having your installer uninstall the floor, take out the carpet padding and re-install the vinyl. If the carpet padding is not removed, the vinyl will separate over time.

  24. HI we just put down vinyl plank in our hallway. There was carpet there before with an underlay. The installer installed the vinyl plank flooring right over the old carpet underlay, is this ok ? Feels great underfoot but floor does feel a little soft.

  25. Hi Taylor! If you have an attached rubber backing on the plank, you would not need to put any additional underlayment under the plank. You will be able to install the floor as a floating floor as well.

  26. We are about to install 4 mm vinyl interlocking planks to a fifth wheel trailer. The subfloor is plywood, and the backing of the vinyl is rubber. Do we need to install underlayment as well? And are you still recommending that we glue it down, or is floating okay? Thanks!

  27. We do recommend using a underlayment for vinyl flooring because this will help with noise value and a softness on the foot. However, there are many affordable options for vinyl underlayment that are closer to $0.18 to $0.60 per square foot. Vinyl Underlayment Options As far as the rolling chairs are concerned, we do recommend you use casters under the legs of tables and chairs to protect the vinyl.

  28. I had a flooring store (the owner) tell me that I cannot install vinyl plank flooring using a glue down method without installing a 3/8 underlayment first. I want to use the glue down method because he also said even 5 minutes of direct sun can cause click-install vinyl floors to buckle, and we also have a dining table with rolling chairs, which apparently are a no-no. The price he quoted me for the underlayment was the same if not more than the cost of the vinyl planks, in essence doubling the cost so that was $12-$13 a square foot (before installation costs). Everything I have heard before is that vinyl plank does not need an underlayment. I am so discouraged and confused. What is true?

  29. Hi Valerie, thanks for the question. With loose lay, you have a bit more flexibility with the subfloor. If you go with a connected, floating floor, you will see a bit more movement when it comes to low and high levels of the subfloor.

  30. Valerie HEISLER

    Hi Alana. I have an old house. I recently removed my old carpet in the living room and the floor was drastically not level or flat. I had a couple of floor guys look at it and they said the best thing to do would be to tear out out entire floor and also replace joints. Financially this was not feasible . A friend then recommended a gentleman who said he could fix it with “sleepers”. He is almost done and near ready to put the final plywood down. However, he now states that after trying different ways- the floor will be flat but not completely level. I would like to put down Karndean loose lay vinyl flooring ( second choice would be the interlocking vinyl flooring). i have read on some sights that the floor needs to be flat but can be on a plane ( not level). Is this true and is it true for loose lay vinyl ?

  31. Hi Rich, thanks for your question. You can’t really install an additional subfloor here. You could try using a concrete leveling agent to add height. Your easiest solution will be to just have a transition piece where the height changes.

  32. Hi Nally, thanks for the question. I am going to say yes, the floating option with underlayment would have helped with this. It has a bit more opportunity for movement with the floating, but definitely more comfortable.

  33. I have the same issue but I will be installing the vinyl flooring over the the entire floor including the tile. What would you recommend to installing that is 5/16″ over the concrete slab to match the tile floor height so I can have seamless transitions throughout the house? Thank you

  34. Hi! We just installed Shaw’s 5mm glue down vinyl plank onto our concrete floors in an enclosed, finished sunroom. We wanted something easy to clean in case kids track in dirt versus carpet. Our installer advised glue down option. His other estimate was for a 6.5 mm floating option With a foam underlayment. My question is whether this option would have been a better option so it doesn’t feel so hard. We have young kids and shared this concern. Right now, it feels like the concrete floor 🙁

  35. Hi Tom, thanks for the question. If your tile is only 7mm different, you should buy a 6mm vinyl and add a 1mm underlayment. This should make the floors very similar in height and a simple transition molding will join them at the seam. You wouldn’t need to worry about adding to the subfloor then.

  36. Hi Jay, thanks for the question. It is not recommended to glue down a click vinyl. Why do you want to add it under the cabinet? The cabinet should go directly over the subfloor and the vinyl installed around it.

  37. Hi. i have a single story home in FL that has concrete floors. i removed all the carpeting from the house, so now half the house has bare concrete floors, and the other half has ceramic tile. The ceramic tile is 5/16″ thick. I’d like to put a sub-floor on the concrete floor to match up with the ceramic tile, and then install vinyl plank flooring (with a rubber backing) over it all.
    How would you tackle this job? What are the options for the sub-floor? The mfg doesn’t recommend plywood sub-floors on concrete. Thanks.

  38. Hi I have a 5 mm luxury vinyl click down plank with a built in underlay. I was hoping to instal in a small space under cabinets and need to glue it down. Is this possible? What products can I use to glue to the foam backing?

  39. Hi Hector, thanks for the question. You will want to stick with an LVT specific underlayment that is 1.5mm or 1mm. Concrete should be as level as possible, or the floating floor can dip into the low spaces, causing noise or joint damage.

  40. hi recently im working in a lvp flooring 4mm and want to see if a underlayment 2mm is good to help inperfections in concrete subflor?

  41. Hi Dorman, thanks for the question. You will need to instal a proper subfloor, with either concrete of plywood, before installing your vinyl planks. You can learn more about subfloors here:

  42. I took up old tile that was on bathroom floor but under tile it was mud bed with the wire do I have to take that up before putting lvp down

  43. Hi Nancy, thanks for your question. I am unsure about installing over gypcrete. They may have needed to use a different adhesive for this type of underlayment. A click vinyl can float over this with no problem.

  44. Hi Dave, thanks for the question. We typically don’t recommend adding two underlayments under a floor. Due to this, I am unsure about how much additional sound proofing you will get. I would double check on the double underlayment, as usually this is no recommended and can void the warranty.

  45. Our condo building replaced our lobby floor, ceremic, with LVT. The subfloor is concrete and a great possibility it’s gypcrete. The LVT was glued down and the tiles have popped up and won’t stay glued down. One flooring person has told us that glue down vinyl won’t stick over gypcrete without a wood or padding subflooring. Recommended a click floor. Do you know anything about installing over gypcrete?

  46. Hi: We live in an apartment and we are purchasing a vinyl plank for our living area that includes a 1.55mm cushion backing that is attached with an IIC rating of 73 and STC of 72. To further improve the sound proofing, the supplier is also recommending a 1.5mm underlayment with a similar sound transfer rating. Is the sound proofing cumilative i.e. combined the soundproofing of the flooring once installed with the underlayment is above IIC 73 and STC 72. The subfloor is a cement board and the manuafacturer has indicated using the underlayment does no affect the warranty for the plank. Thank you.

  47. Hi Tina, sorry to hear about your issues. An unlevel subfloor can definitely cause the creaking and dipping feel you have. The floating floor acts as one piece, so when walked on, it will move into low spots. For the concrete slabs, usually Durock is used for tile installations and not vinyl. From what I am reading, this is not as structurally sound as a subfloor and I have never seen it as a recommendation to install over with a floating floor. It seems like you have a good case for an insurance claim against an improper installation from your installer.

  48. Hi, we hadLVP I stalled in a house remodel . The installer laid concrete board ( Duroc ) in the bedrooms where there was carpet . Theses rooms feel very uneven and lumpy with soft spots . They hav3 torn up 2 bedrooms and applied self leveler but it still feels funny with areas that dip when walked on . Also the kit he has several spots where an existing island was torn out and the hardwood stopped at base of cabinets . The concrete slab was exposed and a concrete mixture was put in these voids , but continues to give us problems with visible soft spots that cave in when walked on . There is a clicking noise as well . They keep telling me this is normal with a floating floor . Should Cement board be used as a sub floor and what about areas in kitchen where the island was removed . The installer did not check for level ness of existing floors prior to installing the LVP . We also have a very obvious high spot at the door threshold entering the kitchen from the dining room. This floor was installed late October and early November of 2019 and has been problamatic since .

  49. Hi Nano, thanks for the question. Vinyl can actually be installed directly over concrete, however, a lot of people opt for an underlayment for extra cushioning. For the piano, I would recommend going with an SPC, WPC or rigid core vinyl. These have engineered cores for stability and durability, which will be harder to dent. Be sure to use disks or coasters under each leg of the piano. You can take a look at our vinyls here:

  50. Hi Marc, thanks for the question. I don’t believe it will discolor, as it will be on the bottom of the plank. You could always as a vapor barrier or underlayment above the concrete as a protective barrier.

  51. We are planning to install LVP or LVT over concrete in our basement, and a baby grand piano will go in that area. I understand a vapor barrier is recommended (6 mil plastic sheeting enough?), but do you also need something between the barrier and the concrete to prevent mold? Also, given the weight we’re going to put on it, what kind of LV do you recommend?

  52. Hi Alana, we want to install vinyl planks on a concrete floor which has been repaired at certain places with epoxy patches. We heard that there might be decoloration risks, vinyl could react to the epoxy patches and change colour even if the epoxy dried for several days. Could you please give us your advice ? Is this correct? Thank you

  53. Hi Sheila, great question. Are you installing a rigid core LVP? This is what I would recommend for you. Vinyl’s do tend to dent easier, but the piano’s weight will be disbursed through the feet. If you add cushions or disks under the legs, it should be fine. You can learn more about flooring and weight here:

  54. Hi Sarah, thanks for your question. If the manufacturer does not recommend it, than it could void your warranty. If you wanted to add cork, a much thinner option would be necessary. Doing 6mm of cork will be way too much and compromise the locking system. You could probably get away with a 2mm or less cork if you wanted to use it.

  55. I purchased LVP and padding for my manufactured home remodeling flooring. Now I read that heavy furniture shouldn’t be placed on it (and especially if padding is installed) and I have a baby grand piano! Any suggestions?

  56. Hi, I’m installing a 8.5mm LVP that does have an attached pad. I want to maximize sound dampening as it’s in a 2nd story of a townhome built in 1970. A supplier says 1/4″ cork will be good, but the manufacturer instructions say no underlayment over 1/5mm. I’m assuming because any compression of an underlayment could affect locking system, but they say it’s ok. Is this because the cork isn’t that compressible? Should I be worried?

  57. Hi David, thanks for the question. You could use underlayment here to help cover it, but I would try to get it as smooth as possible. As long as the glue isn’t huge globs, I think you will be OK with underlayment considering your floor will be thick. Sometimes we worry about the debris being able to show through the vinyl, but I think yours will be thick enough.

  58. Hi Nino, the LVT acoustic underlayment is only 1.5mm. I would recommend a rigid core LVT of 4mm or more, or a standard LVT of 5mm or more.

  59. What about the glue? I had an old linoleum flooring that was glued down and since pull it up, there’s still a sticky residue on the floor. Should I use solvents to remove all the old sticky residue or can I lay plastic sheeting (vapor barrier) down to give a cleaner surface for the 7mm LVF planks on top of?

  60. Thank you for quick reply Alana

    What luxury vinyl floor planks would you recommend if i was going with this perfect mat lvt acoustic 5mm underlayment?

  61. Hi Nino, thanks for the question. Although laminate is a great idea, you may want to consider a vinyl floor. It will have less sound with a rigid core as well as be waterproof for your kitchen. For laminate underlayment sound proofing, here are the best ones: and For vinyl, this will be your best option for sound:

  62. Hello

    I would like to update flooring on my second floor rental apt ( I live below). I am going to take the current laminate flooring out and I think the subfloor has thin plywood (just my opinion since house is built in 1966) and add thicker plywood to replace old subfloor.

    So I am looking for good sound proof flooring/underlayment. I want to dampen the sound from the kitchen so I don’t hear it downstairs. I am also looking for something easy and quick to install. The rest of the house is hardwood floors except kitchen.

    If you can please recommend best option when it comes to flooring and underlayment that will have good sound proofing and also good protection against water, spills etc since the apartment is a rental.

    Thank you in advance 🙂

  63. Hi Gretchen, thanks for the question. I would lift a few planks closest to the leak and see what the status of the subfloor is. You will want to have a completely dry subfloor and vinyl plank, so mold does not begin. You should be able to just unclick then re-install the planks. If the subfloor is dry, then you should be ok.

  64. Four weeks ago we had luxury vinyl installed over a concrete slab (no basement or crawl space under our home), floating….no glue or anything else other than the vinyl over concrete. We just found out we had a leak under our sink that traveled down the pipe to under the flooring. We only found out because water started seeping up through the seams of the vinyl planks. We think we know when it started…probably about a week ago. We had a plumber fix the leak this morning and now just a few little spots of water here and there are peeking up. My questions is, do we need to have someone lift up the planks and dry them out, or do you think we could save the time and expense and just let it dry on it’s own?

  65. Hi Kenny, thanks for the question. What kind of underlayment is in the kitchen? There is a possibility it will be too thick and could compromise the joints of the vinyl. You also want to make sure you have a good subfloor to start with. A transition between the living room and kitchen may be the easiest option. Sound proofing for the vinyl, you can use these underlayments:, I would stick with an LVT specific underlayment vs cork. Our floor you are interested has the sound absorbing underlayment already attached. I hope this answered everything! Feel free to give us a call if you have additional questions: 800-520-0961

  66. Hi – I want to install a good quality LVP through out my units (transition-less install).

    I ripped out the carpet and I have 3/4″ inch OSB. It is in good condition but will need some sanding to get the old this and that off.

    Today I removed the cheap laminate that was install in the kitchen. I found sheet vinyl below. And below the vinyl is 1/4 board (not plywood. I can’t think of the name off hand).

    I will remove the old sheet vinyl. But I will have a 1/4″ difference between the kitchen and living room. So I don’t think I can make a transition-free install from the kitchen to the living room (unless someone knows a good trick for this).

    I could remove the 1/4″ underlayment in the kitchen. I assume that 1/4 underlayment is there for a reason (waterproofing?). I don’t know what it is like underneath the underlayment yet. Not sure I want to know…

    Or I could put down a 1/4″ underlayment throughout the house to even up the floors (sans the kitchen).

    And one more thing – I need some sound proofing.

    So I thought of going with a 1/4″ cork underlayment. But the 1/4″ stuff doesn’t say it works with LVP. Maybe it is took thick? Or too spongy?

    I just found your company and am interested in LZL5191-10 LVP. But I already purchased HD’s LIFEPROOF WALTON OAK. This is a 4 plex and I will probably use LZL5191 for the other units (much cheaper). I assume the other units will be the same as the house is fairly new and original.

    Please advise.

  67. Hi Bill, thanks for the question. Vinyl will be your best bet here. I’d recommend going with an SPC, as it is known to expand and contract the least in temperature changes. Underlayment is an option, but you can install directly over the subfloor as well. I’d go with a thickness of 4mm or more.

  68. I just constructed a 3 season room addition to my camp.
    There will be no heat in the winter ( campground closed).
    Theres a 3/4 plywood flooring down now. I’m thinking of putting down vinyl plank flooring ( thinking this is best option) What thickness should I purchase and do I install an underlayment? Thanks

  69. Hi Debra, is your wood flooring nailed down at all? Since wood can shift and buckle, we usually don’t recommend installing a floating vinyl over another floating floor. If your hardwood is nailed down, then you could install over it.

  70. I have a 3/4 wood flooring and want to install luxury vinyl planking do I need to remove the existing wood flooring? Both are floating floors.

  71. Hi Don, thanks for your question. It’s hard to say without knowing the type of carpet. I would remove it, so you begin on a solid subfloor. You’ll add underlayment, so you won’t loose a cushion feeling.

  72. Hi Trisha, great question. If you’re installing a floating click vinyl of 4mm or thicker, you can add underlayment. You’ll want to look for an LVT specific option that is 1.5mm or less in thickness. You can see our options here:

  73. Our first floor is concrete slab that has a glued down thin carpet installed, like thin indoor outdoor.. Can I lay a laminate over this or should we pull the old carpet out?

  74. Hi there,

    I am installing a dance studio in my garage – currently it is concrete flooring. For added support can I put a cushion/underlayment underneath vinyl flooring?

  75. Hi Jason, great question. If your linoleum is in good shape and level, you can install right over it. If you wanted added cushion, you could opt for a 1mm vinyl underlayment on top of the linoleum.

  76. I’m installing luxury vinyl plank flooring it’s 4mm thick. There is a linoleum floor there now. We are having interlocking vinyl plank. I’m wondering what to put under it on top of sub floor. Do I need underlayment? Can i just install it on top of existing linolleum? Would adding a foam underlayment effect the locking system strength? Can you offer some advise? Thanks

  77. Hi Rob, you can check out DryBarriers recommendations here depending on what floor you want to use:

  78. Hi Brandon, thanks for the question. We don’t recommend installing vinyl over laminate floors since they can move and buckle, which would then damage the vinyl above it. You should uninstall the laminate and install the vinyl on the sheet vinyl if it is level and in good condition. It wouldn’t hurt to use a moisture barrier since you are on piers. Hope that helps!

  79. Hi Rose Marie, thanks for the question. I would take a look at the manufacturer instructions or give the manufacturer a call to see what they recommend. Since we do not sell sheet vinyl, I am not an expert in this area!

  80. I have DryBarrier product. do i need to install anything else over that if installing engineered wood floring or lux vinyl tile

  81. Hi Alana,
    We are installing sheet vinyl On an upstairs , over a wood subfloor. We want to use a moisture barrier for noise control. Can we do that and if so where would we use the glue ?

  82. Alana, I have read through looking for the best info but mine is sorta a different situation from the rest. I am looking into installing 2mm thick LVP flooring. I have a trailer home on piers right on top the ground. All the tarp and insulation underneath the the trailer is still pretty well intact. Then it’s my subfloor and maybe the old sheet vinly flooring (I see some but not 100 percent sure its underneath all over) then I have 4mm click and lock laminate (i think it’s called engineered hardwood?) floors. Can I put my new LVP floors over what I have already? Or should I go down to the sheet vinly? Or if sheet vinly isnt there, down to original subfloors? Also should I use a moisture barrier if I go down to subfloor? If you could please give some advice on the route you would take. Thank you

  83. Hi Qais, thanks for the question. Yes, as ong as the plywood is level and in good shape, you can install over it. The adhesive will depend on two things: 1. How thick is the LVP you want to use and 2. How thick is the adhesive? If you use a thin LVP, you could see the vinyl mold around the adhesive and create a bumpy surface. If the adhesive is pretty flat and the LVP is 4mm or more, you should be fine. An underlayment will help the minor imperfections for sure.

  84. Hello Alana,
    Thank you for the article. I have kind of a unique situation and hoping to get some insight from you.
    My laundry floor had laminate sheet glued on to a piece of plywood which was in turn nailed to the subfloor. Unfortunately, i had a flood. I was able to do a lot of damage control. I removed the laminate sheet from the plywood. However, the plywood is nailed so hard to the subfloor it is almost impossible to remove it without damaging the subfloor. The plywood is dry though. However there is some adhesive still on the plywood. I initially thought of using some chemical to clean up the adhesive but because it is unfinished, I am worried the chemicals might just get soaked.

    So, instead I am now thinking of laying over some underlayment over the plywood and install click and lock type LVP on top. This way, I dont worry about the LVP sticking to the plywood and the underlayment acts as a barrier. Would this work ? the LVP I am seeing is the one with the attached barrier/underlayment at the bottom. Does this sound right to do.

    Thank you for your help.

  85. Hi Nik, thanks for your questions. You can install LVT directly on top of the subfloor, however, if you want the underlayment for added cushion and comfort, it doesn’t hurt to add a vapor barrier if you do end up with moisture problems with your concrete. You’ll want to stick to an LVT specific underlayment. Using a manufacturer’s underlayment and a generic probably won’t have much of a difference, depending on what qualities it has, i.e. noise reduction, thermal properties, etc. You can check out our vinyl underlayments here to compare:

  86. I am looking to lay some click LVT in our new build house. The subfloor is simply concrete. Should I be looking for an underlay with a vapour barrier, or is this unnecessary? I have the choice between a 2mm underlay without vapour barrier, or a 3mm underlay with vapour barrier.

    Also, in your experience, does using a manufacturer’s underlay give any benefits over a generic underlay? Thanks!

  87. Thanks for pointing that out! All fixed 🙂

  88. under section glue down vinyl, the correct spelling of glueing should be gluing.

    Appears to be a typo in this missive

  89. Hi Kevin, thanks for the question. If your installing over a plywood subfloor, you do not need any type of material over the subfloor. You can lay the vinyl right over the subfloor.

  90. I’m installing f2 fortress stronghold spc luxury vinyl plank flooring it’s 180mm x 1218mm x 4mm i’m installing it on new construction tongue and groove sub floor it has an attached underlayment but I’m wondering what to put under it on top of sub floor my contractor wants to use tar paper but that doesn’t sound right. Can you offer some advise

  91. Hi Robin, thanks for the question. If you have click vinyl floors installed, you should be able to uninstall the planks, fix the subfloor and re-install the vinyl again! I would add a vapor barrier film beneath the planks to prevent any mold or moisture issues.

  92. Hi Enrique, thanks for the question. If your glue down vinyl has an attached underlayment, such as COREtec, and it can be glued down, then you can glue it to the concrete. Most glue down vinyls will require you do glue directly to the subfloor. I would check with the manufacturer directions and see what they recommend for installation.

  93. The subfloor in our 40 year old rent house was good last year. The house is on piers, with a brick chain wall with vents on three sides. Half of the floors were covered with linoleum, and the other half carpet. Last year, We had Luxury plank vinyl installed. Now the subfloor is so rotten, it has to be replaced. Can you re on end a fix if we decide to put down the same waterproof floor? Is there any plank vinyl floor that is vapor permeable?

  94. Hi I have a question: I’m installing a glue down plank flooring. Customer ask for a 1/2 cork underlayment. Can I install 1/2 cork underlayment over concrete than glue my lvp over the cork. I’m planning on glueing cork down also and glue lvp to cork? This product is not a click. Thanks,

  95. Hi Dennis, thanks for the question. Most vinyls and laminates are approved for heated floors. If you go with a laminate, you will just need a vapor barrier underlayment. A vinyl can be installed right over the subfloor. No other prep needed,, except referring to the manufacturer instructions on heating requirements!

  96. With a heated and painted concrete floor what are my options as to a floor covering. Would there be any special preparations to the floor.

  97. Hi Mike, thanks for the question. Typically, most LVT underlayment is 1.5mm or less. Adding .5mm more will not make a ton of difference. What type of underlayment is with the plank? If you’re looking for a more high end underlayment, such as sound reduction or thermal properties, then a stand alone underlayment will probably be best – that is, depending what is on the attached plank. Are they both rigid core constructions? If so, they will both be very sturdy and durable, no matter the thickness.

  98. You have probably answered this many times but I am tearing up old carpeting and kitchen tile and putting down floating vinyl planks, the subfloor under the carpet is concrete (concrete slab)…the planks I am looking at say they have a 1 mm pad for underlayment….is that enough for concrete without having to put down additional padding, total thickness is 5.3…the other I am looking at is 1.5 mm pad on the plank and 8 mm thickness…I like the pattern and price of #1 more but if 1 mm is not enough and will have problems in the future will go with #2….does the extra .5 mm make that much difference?…thanks

  99. Hi Kacey, thanks for the question. Unfortunately, I think these will add too much cushion and compromise the integrity of the joints. It could cause your floors to start un-locking, depending on the product you go with. A rigid core may be able to withstand this, but it would definitely void the warranty. To put it into perspective, most vinyl underlayments are under 1.5mm. If you wanted the cushion and insulation, I’d recommend a vinyl underlayment that has these qualities.

  100. Hi Ryan, thanks for the question. It will be best to use a transition from room to room. This is usually recommended regardless and an easy fix at the doorsways. I have a feeling there was extra subflooring added for a reason – maybe past water damage from kitchen or bath? I would leave the subfloor how it is. If you don’t use underlayment on some of your reno, you might be upset it isn’t throughout every room if you like how it feels. It can make a pretty big difference in vinyls. I think a transition at the door ways will work perfect for you here and you won’t have to worry about any extra construction. You will want to find a matching reducer molding that is made for evening out height differences. Most of our floors have a close match molding! Hope this helps.

  101. We’re going to finish our basement into a playroom. Currently, there is a concrete slab and the previous owner covered the floor with 1/2″ foam interlocking tiles- like the kind you would use for a kids play area or gym. Can I leave these down as my subfloor if I use vinyl wood floor planks that are >4mm? I would love the extra cushion below the wood and the added insulation. We don’t have moisture issues. I would also hate to waste all the foam mats since they are in decent shape.

  102. Hello there! My wife and I are wanting to install vinyl plank throughout our existing home. We have already removed the old carpet and linoleum from the kitchen, hallway, and bath but noticed that the kitchen and bathroom have an extra layer of subfloor. We would like all three rooms to run the same direction to give a nice fluid look. What do I do about the different heights of floor? Tear out extra layer, add extra layer to the rest of the floor, don’t use the soft underlayment in the kitchen and bath, use a transition of some sort?? HELP! Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

  103. Hi John, thanks for the question. The first thing you need to do is determine why there was water. Was it the humidity in the room? Did you have a heavy rain fall? Is there a leak somewhere? You will need to determine the cause and fix it, which hopefully your dehumidifier does. Unfortunately, with an adhesive product, there is no moisture barrier to protect the floor from water. Mold can be an issue to worry about if water is trapped beneath the product. If it continues, you may have to remove the tiles, install a moisture barrier and/or fix the concrete or leak and install a floating floor with a moisture barrier.

  104. Hi, we had vinyls plank flooring installed directly over concrete in our basement. A couple of weeks later we noticed water seeping up. Upon removal of a plank the water was present on top of the concrete. The planks are adhesive strips and cannot be removed without damaging them. I have added a dehumidifier to the room in hopes of rectifying the situation without an expensive re_ do…what are your thoughts on this?

  105. Thank you, Alana.

  106. Hi Brenda, thanks for the question. My biggest fear here is with the drain. Will it be fully sealed? I would only recommend a moisture barrier here since you did mention the drain. The barrier will protect your subfloor from any potential moisture. It is a cheap way to ensure it will stay dry. Here is the basic barrier we sell:

  107. In a rec room in my basement I currently have a vinyl plank flooring over suspected asbestos tile on top of concrete. As the floor slopes to an old, covered, unused drain, I’m having someone install a floating floor to even out the floor to make it more user friendly. He is going to install wood strips across the floor on which to lay plywood. Next, I was going to lay vinyl sheet flooring – loose lay. I’ve had no moisture issues in the basement. Although a window in that room leaked during a hard rain once. My friend was advised he should place a moisture barrier on top of the current vinyl plank floor before installing the wood strips and plywood, to protect the floor from mold should moisture somehow build up between the floors. What are your thoughts on this? And if a barrier is needed, which product do you recommend?
    Thank you.

  108. Hi Charlie, sorry to hear about your flooring issue! Buckling of wood flooring can happen due to a few factors. Moisture is one, another is not having enough room to expand and the last is a change in temperature. The first thing is to determine what might be causing the buckling. If it is simply that the temperature changed drastically, that could be the issue. If it is a fixable problem, you could leave the parquet and fix the issue. If you are not sure, the best bet would be to remove the parquet and re-install the vinyl over the subfloor, which could end up being a big job. You can install a moisture barrier under the vinyl, but it is not necessary. The subfloor should be level without any drops of glue. Over time, the vinyl may conform to the bumps and show through.

  109. I had click lock LVT put down in my living room recently on top of parquet flooring. Within a couple of months one area has started to push up. When the LVT was removed to look the parquet has tented up underneath. There is no evidence of a damp but I have heard the LVT stops moisture escaping which can lead to this problem. Do I need to take the whole floor up and remove the parquet and put down a vapour barrier? Can this be laid directly onto any bitumen residue that held the parquet down?

  110. Hi Linda, thanks for the question. You could try a vinyl plank adhesive vs. using the sticky backing. You could also try to call the Duraboard company and see what adhesive they would recommend.

  111. Hi Jason, I would stick with using an LVT specific underlayment if you want something under the flooring. If you use materials not specific to the flooring, you could void the warranty.

  112. Hi Jason, thanks for the question. No, you should be fine without using a moisture barrier!

  113. QUESTION-Just had walk-in shower installed and contractor removed entire ceramic flooring (cracked) and put Dura-Board (concrete w/cardboard wrap) over entire bath floor surface. I had already pre-purchased pre-stick vinyl planks for the new ‘look’, but now Nothing will adhere (even with primer/sealer) to the cardboard coat. Now I can’t return planks and really don’t want to (I LUV the look). Any suggestions for good adhesion? I’ve already tried warming the Bathroom and applying downward pressure with plywood and boards…Other type of prep? underlayment? Anything?? Thanks for any feedback

  114. Also what are your thoughts about using red rosin paper as added protection under the vinyl flooring?

  115. I used a self leveling cement product to level an uneven plywood subfloor. Will I need a moisture barrier?

  116. Hi Larissa, thanks for the question. You have the correct information – you can install vinyl directly over the concrete! If you want to add some warmth and/or comfort under foot, you can go with a LVT underlayment beneath the flooring. If you don’t want to use underlayment, you could add a moisture barrier film, but it is not necessary in your case. Many vinyls will come with a cork or underlayment already attached that can be directly added over the concrete as well. Hope this helps!

  117. Hi Alana,

    We are looking at a click vinyl plank flooring for our basement floor. We have not had any issues with water (other then an exterior tap breaking and leaking a bit down our basement wall and onto the concrete). Our basement is all concrete presently. I was told that we do not need any type of sub-floor barrier and can lay directly onto the concrete. We live in Winnipeg and winters get cold and our basement does have a de-humidifier running off and on to help with moisture. What would you recommend for underneath a click vinyl plank install?

  118. Hi Pat, thanks for the question. Is this a floating floor? If so, we don’t recommend gluing planks down, as it can stop the planks from floating freely. You can try this idea from Quick-Step to try and close the gaps you are seeing:

  119. I have vinyl plank flooring in the basement and it is popping up some places between the seems. There is a vapor barrier underneath. What can I do to reattach where they’ve lifted a bit? Is there a glue or can heat be used?

  120. Hi Dexter, yes you can install this under your vinyl. It will simply make your subfloor stronger.

  121. Ive installed ceramic tile in my bathrooms but now my transition is high compared to where I’m installing the vinyl plank flooring. Can I install luan under the vinyl to bring the floors back to level.

  122. Hi Monica, thanks for the question. For this, you will want to put a vapor barrier over your concrete subfloor. That will prevent any moisture from damaging the planks or creating a mold issue under the flooring. This is the film I’d recommend: I would also take a look at a rigid core (SPC or WPC) floor for non-temperature regulated spaces, as they will not move much during temperature shifts.

  123. Hi Amanda, thanks for the question. With a rigid core plank, you can add additional underlayment under the planks, however, I would keep it at 2mm or under. For the pool table, you will still float the floor normally. Since the weight it distributed throughout the 4 legs, it will still be able to float normally. Just make sure you put some type of coaster or cap on the legs to prevent denting. Hope this helps!

  124. Wow – thank you for taking the time to answer all these questions!
    We are installing an 8mm LVF “Rigid Core” with a cork backing on our walkout concrete basement. I’m wondering if we can add an additional 3 mm cork underlayment for extra comfort (no moisture issues in our basement)?
    Also we were going to float the vinyl however we have a pool table in the middle of the basement and I’m wondering how we should deal with that extra weight ie. should we glue down the pieces directly under the pool table and float the rest or just float the whole thing.

    Any help would be much appreciated!
    Thank you in advance

  125. Monica Kane Tussing

    Hi Alana Kane,

    I have a summer camp that is built on a concrete slab. Is not heated during the winter. Every summer we have issues with condensation on our floors. I would like to lay a vinyl planking that has a rubber bottom to it. Will this cause further moisture issues from a not being able to breathe ? Would some sort of vapor barrier work? And what do you recommend? I have seen talk of polysheeting and felt paper but I have no clue.

  126. Hi Glen, thanks for your question. The only thing you will need to do is ensure your tiles are level to start. If you have uneven planks or grout lines, you will need to fill them with leveling compound.

  127. I am thinks of laying a vinyl click flooring to my kitchen/dining area approx 18ml, it is tiled at the ,moment but the tiles are all solid & in good condition. will I need to latex on top of this area first or can i just put down an underlay or vinyl incorporating an underlay straight on top ???

  128. Hi Rupert, yes I believe you can as long as the subfloor is in good shape. You will need to install it with the specified adhesive, as it does not have a click lock edge for floating.

  129. *Butt tiles without grout.

  130. Hi, Can I install Alterna 12×12 tiles on top of existing linoleum? Follow up question, go grout or just tut tiles together.

  131. Hi Susan, is the subfloor in good condition? As long as it is level and has no visible damage, you should be fine to install over it.

  132. Hi i ripped up the old carpet and theres plywood subfloor in my upstairs hallway, do I need to put new plywood down? Im using peel and stick vinyl planks. Thanks

  133. Hi Brent, thanks for your question. Yes, I would agree that a glue down method would be best for you considering the size of your room. Make sure you are buying a product that can be specifically glued. I would recommend a COREtec that is rigid core and has attached cork backing that can be glues or floated.

  134. We are planning on installing 5mm vinyl plank flooring click and lock over a basement below grade concrete floor. We have a pool table and the room is L shaped running 40′ one way and 35′ to the right. Because of the length of the straight run and heavy pool table it was recommended we glue the underlayment to the concrete floor then glue the vinyl planks on top. I gave no problem doing this and understand the reasoning but wanted to get your opinion if needed. Thanks

  135. No problem! If there is too much cushion, there is a potential for joints to get damaged with heavy-footed landing. The edges should stay in tact. The only time I have seen them break or chip is if a heavy or sharp object was dropped. If you go with a rigid engineered vinyl, it will be very stable for dancing.

  136. Thanks Alana for the quick response, could the edges (tongue and groove) of vinyl planks break off if there’s too much cushioning or heavy-footed landing with dancing?

  137. Hi PD, thanks for the question. First, you should remove any carpet and start with a level wood or concrete subfloor. For soundproofing, all you need to find is an LVT underlayment that has sound reduction properties, such as or You can learn all about prepping a subfloor here:

  138. Hi NSS, thanks for the question. Will you be wearing shoes during this dancing? Heels or sharp edges of shoes would be my biggest concern with an LVT. A properly installed LVT should be fine with the impact, but you could also look into a glue down option vs floating. A glue down may give you less cushion underfoot, but it will be adhered to the floor, meaning there is no chance of it moving with dancing.
    1. I would recommend going with an engineered vinyl that will give you a solid core for all of the jumping and dancing. Try an SPC or WPC option with attached underlayment for that extra cushion. I recommend COREtec brands or our private label Bestlaminate SPC vinyls. You can take a look at them here:;
    2. Some vinyls will have a pre-attached underlayment – most COREtecs have this feature and some of our SPC vinyls do as well. This would be sufficient in your application. If you wanted an extra moisture barrier, you could use a vapor barrier film that doesn’t add cushion. If you choose a vinyl without underlayment, you could take a look at these options. My personal recommendation would be either of these:;

  139. You seem quite knowledgeable.

    Our new second story condo has a 6′ x 10′ mudroom. This is at a ski area so the mudroom will see plenty of wet boots and equipment. I would like to install a sound resistant barrier either under the vinyl or under a new sub-floor. What type of materials would you recommend for sound-proofing, subfloor, and waterproof vinyl? If I remove the old carpet and vinyl floor and possibly sub floor there should be plenty of space for vinyl plank. Cost is a consideration but not a huge factor since it’s a small room to begin with.

    Thank you

  140. I’m planning to use LVT in my walk out basement floor which is 8inch thick level concrete and NO water issues so far, but humidity can be around 70% at times. I believe Humidity may go lover by using a proper vapor barrier.
    My main concern is that floor is going to be used as a dance floor. (Asian/Indian dancing which involves jumping, Sumba and very little ballet)
    1. Is LVT a good option for a dance floor? Can it break or become loose with constant pressure?
    2. What are the best underlayment options which can act as a vapor barrier as well as give some support/cushioning for dancing?
    a. So far my choice is “DMX air floor LVT”, is this a good option? Can the dimples get crushed due to dancing?
    b. Can I use additional thin cork/rubber layer (technoflex- TechnoFloor Acoustic from HD) on top of DMX to help, can the too much cushioning cause LVT to break?
    c. IS something like Tranquility Ultra from lumber liquidators or Quiet Walk is a premium from HD enough for this application?
    d. What about “Dance Pad Foam Underlayment” at lumber liquidators? Looks like it can retain moisture and not the best for basement option.
    *I know using additional underlayment can void the warranty of LVT which I’m ok with cause very very rarely manufactures honor them anyway.

  141. Hi Sonia, what type of subfloor do you have? If you stop by a local big box store, they should be able to direct you to the right product for the type of subfloor you have.

  142. Hi Yolanda, yes, unfortunately you will need to start with a level subfloor. Vinyl planks that are floating will sink into the low places and affect the joints. It will feel a little bouncy in the low points.

  143. Hello. Just wondering what kind of leveling compound is needed. I just pulled up laminate hardwood that was glued in just the middle, so now there is 1ft wide by like 7ft long strip of sticky residue. I am trying to install premium engineered vinyl flooring that is floating click and lock.
    What should I use or do before putting the new stuff down.

  144. I am planning to install water proof vinyl plank in the bathroom the subfloor is not level do i need to address this issue before I start laying the vinyl planks down. I hope the answer is no because that will be another added cost for me ..

  145. Hi Holly, thanks for the question. I would recommend sealing the concrete and fixing any areas of potential for water leaking in from the walls. After sealing the concrete, I would lay a vapor barrier film ( over the concrete. This should be all you need!

  146. Hi Sharon, sorry to hear you’re noticing issues with your flooring. Not having a level subfloor can definitely cause these issues. Since the flooring floats as one pieces, any areas where it can dip and move will cause the bouncy feeling. I would contact your installer and have him take a look at the flooring.

  147. Hi Tammy, is this a WPC or SPC vinyl? If it is a rigid core vinyl, such as the WPC or SPC models, you could use a cork underlayment beneath the flooring and it should be stable without issue. I would double check with your manufacturer before installation. Felt paper is generally used for hardwoods.

  148. Hi Alana, I am upgrading a suite. It is in the lower level (1/2 basement) of my home and on the concrete floor (has had carpet for the last 30 yr) The ceiling height is 7.6 and I’d love to keep as much height as possible while prepping and choosing flooring to create warmth and comfort. The concrete floor effloresces which means there is moisture and there shows mildew on the bottom of the carpet that was there. What seems to make sense is using at least one of the following: 1) seal the concrete with a silane or siloxane sealer such as Ghost Shield 9500 (Lithitek 9500) to decrease moisture, 2) a DMX underlayment type product or a styrofoam with channels for moisture elimination or something like that, yet the DMX seems to not be recommended for vinyl click planks because of stability issues and the styrofoam is on OSB and will increase the height too much. Is there ANYTHING out there that will achieve my goal with vinyl click planks? (Choosing those as drop or glue down will be too hard and cold. Hardwoods or wood laminate too susceptible to warping and any potential water damage.) Currently looking at Karndean, Everwood or Goodfellow planks as these are offering colors that work. Thank you so much for your time and advice!

  149. Hello,

    I just had 1900 square feet of LVP laid in my house. I had the tile removed, and the floor guy patched some areas and smoothed it out. I did not want a bouncy feel, hence tile being removed. The floor is down and it looks beautiful, but I can see the floor indenting/flexing in many spots when anyone walks on them. I can easily push it down in the “smushy” spots w just my finger. Almost every other step I take I can “hear” and feel the floor bouncing. I later realized that there was no self leveling agent poured before install of the LVP. Also, since I read that LVP hates cushion, I just did a plastic vapor barrier since the LVP had cork backing already on it.

    My question is, is it possible since there was no self leveling agent poured, this is causing a bouncy feel and flexing on about 70- 80% of the floor. Other areas seem to be a little raised already. The floor is down 10 days now. I know it’s a floating floor but have never felt a floating floor behave like this as I have had them before.

    Thanks for any input!

  150. We are going to install a 7.5mm luxury vinyl click & lock plank floor that comes with underlayment pad attached on the bottom of the planks. We need the level of the floor to be increased by approximately 1/16th of an inch to come up to the same level of the floors surrounding it. A layer of 30# felt paper will accomplish raising the floor to the correct height. What are your thoughts about using the felt paper under the vinyl planks?

  151. Hi Sheila, yes this is a very important step in your installation. An uneven subfloor can lead to issues with the joints and planks, as the flooring will sink into lower areas as it receives pressure from walking on it.

  152. Sheila McCallister

    When installing vinyl plank does the floor need to be completely level?

  153. Hi Erick, thanks for the question. No, unfortunately you will need an expansion gap on all sides to allow the floor to float properly.

  154. Hi Shane, thanks for your question. The only additional thing you may want to add is a vapor barrier film beneath the flooring, on top of the concrete. Other than that, you do not need any additional cushion.

  155. I am laying down lvp and already have baseboard and paint. I am trying to figure out my expansion gaps. The manufacturer recommended one quarter inch on each side which would require pulling up my baseboard. Can I install flush under the baseboard on the starting row side and flush to the baseboard on the finish side resulting in a 3/4 inch total expansion gap but only on one side? The other two sides I can get the 1/4 inch.

  156. Hi I am installing LVP click lock flooring on my basement floor. The flooring already has a pad on the bottom. Would you recommend adding additional underlayment for comfort?

  157. Hi Patrick, thanks for the question. You should try to start with a subfloor that is as smooth as possible. I would recommend trying to get most of the adhesive up, or putting a leveling compound over the subfloor to make it completely smooth. Depending on the vinyl, you could end up with it taking on the shape to any imperfections on the subfloor.

  158. Hi….I am installing LVP click lock flooring over an area that had laminate would flooring that was glued down with an adhesive. After I removed the wood planks there is residue remaining. Can I lay my new flooring on top of the residue or do I need to get up all the adhesive?

  159. Hi Carol, thanks for your question. No, we do not recommend adding vinyl on top of laminate flooring. You should remove the laminate and install the vinyl on top of the subfloor. Due to laminate’s ability to float and change with temperature, this can create buckling or gapping, which creates an unstable subfloor to install over.

  160. Hi we plan to use click lock through out our home over existing laminate. Is that ok? I know we can’t use the glue vinyl planks but what about the click lock planks?

  161. Hi Patrick, thanks for the question. If it is a wood subfloor, you would just need a vapor barrier film over the subfloor. If it is concrete, you can also use a moisture barrier film, but you will also need to ensure it has no moisture issues before starting. If you’ve noticed moisture issues, I would recommend sealing it and adding the film over top.

  162. Hi Elizabeth, thanks for the question. This is the vapor barrier we would recommend:

  163. Hi Susan, thanks for the question. The easiest fix for you here is to just install the vinyl over the ceramic. All you will need to do is fill in the grout with leveling compound and ensure the flooring is level. This way, you can add a proper LVT underlayment that has sound proofing and install the vinyl over it. You will have added sound proofing, since it will be over the ceramic. You could install the vinyl in your bathrooms as well to keep the height difference the same between the floors. I would recommend looking into an SPC or WPC Vinyl product. You can shop our options here: If you have any more questions on this, feel free to give us a call at 800-520-0961. Thanks!

  164. Patrick Lipscomb

    We’re looking to install LVP at our cottage in Northern Wisconsin. There is a crawl space under the flooring of the cottage. Would an underlay prevent moisture and mold from the flooring, or do we need to seal the flooring with anti-mold sealer/primer first?

  165. Quick follow up question. Is a plastic barrier under click vinyl planks adequate to curtail moisture in concrete slab. Is there a better option? Are there better plastic barrier options than others? We live in Florida where it is humid and house sits on concrete slab. Thank you.

  166. We are in the process of purchasing a unit in a condominium complex which requires half inch cork subfloor . The building is a four-story concrete structure and there is ceramic tile with a 1/4 inch cork subfloor presently . The downstairs neighbor has been complaining about noise for years and the seller is willing to put in a new floor and we want to make sure they do the job according to this half inch cork restriction that the condo association requires. We assume the bathrooms are going to remain with the ceramic tile and that the other ceramic existing tile will have to be removed. I am so happy I found this blog because I have spent hours searching and speaking to people and I keep getting different opinions. What do you suggest we have installed on top of this cork? I wanted luxury vinyl but was told a half inch cork is too thick to lay down on top of so we are leaning towards engineered hardwood and need clarification. Does the cork get completely glued down?

  167. Hi Bren, thanks for the question. I would highly recommend starting with a level, smooth subfloor. A subfloor is the base of your flooring. Problems with it can cause issues with the joints and potential gapping. I would also recommend thinking about a glue down product for such a large space. Hope this helps!

  168. We had a metal home built, on concrete slab…we paid extra to have the concrete floors have an additional coat of acrylic, as we ran out of money and could not afford flooring for the home. The builder did a horrendous job on the concrete. The expansion lines are a mess, the floor cracking has gone far beyond the “checking” they described to us, and the floor is woefully uneven. I cannot even get my bookcases to stand still…they wobble everywhere. So, I am considering Flooret, due to its size, as we have a HUGE greatroom/kitchen combo (36×32) and a 55’ hallway attached to that room…nearly 4,000 sq ft. of house. But, now I think we may need to do floor level compound, and our baseboard is already in. Is it possible we could get away with NOT doing leveling compound? Any recommendations?

  169. Hi Doug, thanks for your question. It is important to have a clean, level subfloor before installing your flooring. I’d advise to try and remove the glue, as a vinyl can take on the shape of the glue. You may be able to find some glue removal substances at a local hardware store. Also, only install a vinyl specific underlayment over the subfloor.

  170. Hi. I want to know if I can put in 1/2 r-tech styrofoam right on top of my subfloor because the flooring is not level like I want it to be. The other thing is I took out my old parkay flooring and the glue they put down is rough and sticky.

  171. Hi Ray, thanks for reaching out. Vinyl is waterproof and should not change color if there is water on it. If there is water beneath it, your issue would be mold or mildew. It is hard to say what this could be without seeing it. I would recommend reaching out to the manufacturer and filing a warranty claim. This could be a manufacturer defect.

  172. Hi Justin, thanks for the question. Using a leveler here is a good idea and should work to help level the space. I would recommend filling in the grout lines and have a level subfloor to begin installation over. If you would like a softer feel underfoot, you can opt for a vinyl specific underlayment, like we have here: With the engineered core, SPC should not move and expand with change. It’s a great product for projects with temperature fluctuations. Best of luck with the install!

  173. Installed Home legend WPC Luxury Vinyl DV751-C Commercial Long
    View Pine 23.60 sf/can throughout entire home including basement concrete floor. Basement was before and after very dry and zero evidence of water. Starting to now get brownish
    Liquidity substance appearing on floor in basement only
    Wipes off but reappears in a few days. Basement concrete slab was perfectly dry and cleaned prior to installation

  174. We are going to be put 6mm VCT planks in a hair salon. The space currently has ceramic tile in 2/3 of it and concrete in the 1/3. My thought was to put a layer of self leveler on the concrete floor up to same level as the existing ceramic tile so that it’s all an equal level and then lay the VCT on top of this. The VCT is click lock planks. Do you think this will work? Or do we need to remove the ceramic tile? Also, the ceramic tile has 1/4″ grout lines which are not too deep. Do you recommend filling the grout lines or is the flooring thick enough that the grout lines will not show through over time. For further info, the VCT we have selected is stone composite (SPC) construction. Any info is greatly appreciated. Do you recommend an underlayment for this application? Does the SPC have any concerns with expansion? Thank you in advance for your help. We are trying to do the install as quickly as possible to since it is a working salon and we can only close for a day or two for the install. This is why our thought was to lay over the ceramic tile instead of removing it.

  175. Hi Liz, I would recommend this one: Just make sure your floor is over 4mm and the manufacturer specifies that you can use an underlayment!

  176. In process of having concrete floor levelled then click vinyl on top can you recommend which underlay thanks

  177. Hi Michael, thanks for the question. You should remove the carpet and install the vinyl directly over the concrete.

  178. Hi Vlad, we would not recommend wax paper. You could look into a vinyl specific underlayment to help eliminate any noise! You can check out our options here:

  179. Can I install planks over indoor / outdoor carpet which is over concrete floor

  180. Hi
    I have installed plywood subfloor with dimpled membrane underneath.
    Interesting if it’s good idea to cover plywood with waxed paper for reason of elimination potential squeaking then install 5mm luxury vinyl planks

  181. Hi Donna, thanks for the question. No, unfortunately you would need to uninstall the laminate and lay vinyl over the subfloor. You can only lay vinyl over top of adhered flooring, not floating. Hope that helps!

  182. I have laminate flooring ATM but want Lvt can it be laid straight ontop

  183. Hi Leanne, great question. You can lay the planks directly on top of the tiles as long as they are in good condition and level. It is not recommended to touch the tiles unless you plan on getting them professionally removed. No moisture barrier needed in your situation!

  184. Leanne Schultz

    Just to add, what kind of vapor barrier would be suitable under loose lay vinyl plank in this situation?

  185. Leanne Schultz

    Hi, we’ve got a 70 year old house. In the basement family room, we have discovered vinyl asbestos tile under the carpet. It seems well adhered and in good condition, seemingly no moisture issues. On top of this, there had been a sheet of plastic, acting I guess as vapor barrier, and a chunk of carpet thrown on top. We would like to put loose lay vinyl plank on top of the asbestos tile. Do we have to put down a vapor barrier of some kind on top of the asbestos tile? Or can we just lay the loose lay planks on top?

  186. Hi Lou, great questions. I would stay away from rubber underlayment and use an LVT specific padding. A 5mm is way too thick for a 6mm plank. The underlayment should be 1.5mm or less – this is standard for vinyl. You can also look into cork underlayments for vinyl. They will give you the highest thermal rating. Here are the vinyl underlayments we offer:

  187. Hi Beverly, thanks for your question. A vinyl floor will probably be your best option for a motor home. You could also opt for a laminate, but a vinyl will be waterproof. For a vinyl, you do not need an underlayment. Feel free to give us a call at 800-520-0961 if you have more questions about vinyl! You can also browse and order free samples here:

  188. Hi there,

    I am planning to use a 6mm luxury vinyl planks for my basement floor.

    2 Questions:

    1. I’ve been reading that rubber underflooring is not recommended for vinyl due to potential stain issues?
    2. I want to maximize thermal insulation. Is a 5 mm rubber underflooring too thick for my 6mm vinyl planks? If it’s too thick, any recommendations on how thick my rubber underflooring should be?

    Thank you.

    Thank you.

  189. We want to replace the tile and the carpet in our motor home. What would be the best product for this application and also what type of underlayment would be best?

  190. Hi Samy, thanks for the question. You can install the Luxury Vinyl planks over the vinyl sheet as long as it is in good condition and level. It can go right over top of it! You shouldn’t have any issues if you have had no moisture issues in the past.

  191. Hi, We are planning on installing a Luxury Vinyl Plank 8mm click type in our bathroom which already has a vinyl sheet. We want to install the planks on top of the sheet. The planks do not have an attached padding or underlayment. Do you need to have an underlayment? If not will it be okay and not have problems in the future. Thanks

  192. Hi Amyjo, thanks for the question. There are two sound properties to look for: IIC and STC. Impact Insulation Class (IIC) and Sound Transmission Class (STC). “IIC tests the ability to block impact sound by measuring the resistance to transmission of impact noise or structure-borne noise (simulating footfalls, objects dropped on the floor, etc.). STC evaluates the ability of a specific construction assembly to reduce airborne sounds, such as voices, stereo systems, and TV.” – NALFA. Underlayments with high sound ratings will have both of these reduction properties.

  193. Hi Monica, if you use an LVT specific underlayment, such as our Pro-Line or FloorMuffler LVT, you will get triple sound dampening with that, plus the cork, plus the dampening of the WPC rigid core. Because of the rigid core construction, it will be fine over the LVT underlayment. You can shop the options here: Hope this helps!

  194. Hi Dorene, thanks for reaching out! The COREtec One collection has a variety of looks and no underlayment. It is a WPC rigid core vinyl and is also approved to be glued. Take a look and order a free sample if you like any:

  195. Dorene Giacopini

    Hi! I want to put down vinyl plank. The complications: I use a power wheelchair and we are on a concrete slab. Our contractor wants to use click vinyl but also glue it due to the torque if the chair. If it is glued there cannot be a moisture barrier between the concrete and the tile. So he wants to use rigid core. So far I can’t find a rigid core with the look I want (acacia) that doesn’t have an attached underlayment. Can you help? He wants me to change to tile but that’s so hard and cold.

  196. Monica Wellington

    I am ready to purchase the 1/2″ thick Cortec Plus LVP. We have 3/4″ plywood subfloors above a basement apartment. We are trying *hard* to reduce sound between the floors. I already am using Roxul, Safe & Sound insulation between the floors, with a Green Glue Joist tape on all of the joists, then 5/8″ drywall on the ceiling below. To reduce IIC and STC noise, I am considering putting Green Glue compound down over the existing subfloor, then 3/8″ OSB over the top of that–followed by the 1/2″ Coretec. However–adding this much height requires that I use some transitions to where the floor will meet existing tile. (not the end of the world–but also not ideal). I’ve read lots of posts about using sound-dampening underlayment, and US Floors says they don’t “recommend” doing that with the 1/2″ Coretec, but said if “you have to”, only use something less than 3mm. My question is–does anyone have experience using a sound-dampening underlayment with the 1/2″ Coretec, or would going the green glue option be better–so that the flooring has a solid base? I’ve searched and searched and cannot find this exact scenario. TIA

  197. What does “reduce sound” in regard to underlayment refer to, 1) the sound of walking on the floor (avoid clicking of floating floor on subfloor), or 2) reduce sound transmission through the floor?

    I’m installing a click-type floating floor on a finished hardwood floor (i have a lab), and would rather the floor feel like wood (rather than feel squishy), but I was hoping underlayment might reduce sound transmission between floors (old house). I’m thinking maybe a cork underlayment would feel firm/solid and help with noise transmission? What do you think/recommend?

  198. Hi Susanne, when it comes to vinyl flooring, electric radiant heat has too much thermal cycling that can lead to joint failure. You could opt for an underlayment that has a thermal R rating to help keep the warmth in your floors or go for a laminate. Hope this helps!

  199. HI Ken, did you solve your problem. we basically have the same exact situation. but most all our tile from 1950 is intact. I want to put a floating floor with select areas of radiant heat like around the pool table for comfort, not to heat the room, just to not have cold feet! :). Problem is the vinyl I found at Lumber Liquidators manufacturer label says you can only use hydronic heat not electric… but again I will probably never heat above 65 degrees as I just want to get the chill out of the floor. Have you found anything better. I am open to finding another vinyl click in company. I definitely do not want hydronic heat! thank-you!

  200. Hi Jim, did your concrete slab ever have moisture issues? Usually you can install vinyl directly over concrete, but if it has a moisture issue, then a vapor barrier is recommended.

  201. I have a vinyl plank floor that is showing moisture in the seams in a few locations. Should I have put a vapor barrier underneath? I have a concrete slab.

  202. Hi Ken, thanks for your question. I would go the route of self leveling where the tiles are damaged. Be sure to fill in all cracks and have it be level. As far as your pool table goes, as long as you have coasters underneath the legs, the weight should be dispersed enough to use a floating vinyl. IN this case, I would look for a rigid core, either WPC or SPC, that has a stable core so you do not see any denting due to the weight. Let us know if we can help you find a floor! If you have any other questions, just let us know.

  203. Hi Mary, thanks for your question. With vinyl, you do not need an underlayment. It is safe to install directly over the concrete. Was your subfloor completely dry and level? It is hard to say what the reason could be without seeing it, but potentially there could be areas that are not level and the vinyl is dipping into the valleys of the concrete.

  204. We just had a 7mm vinyl plank installed in our living and kitchen area. It was installed over concrete. They did not use an underlayment, not did they glue it down. There are places where it feels solid, but there are many places where it feels hollow and makes a noise when you walk on it. Was this a problem with installation, and is there a way to fix this?

  205. Hi there,
    I wish to install about 450 square ft of wpc in my basement over some linoleum and some 9×9 square tile from the 50’s. It is likely the tile and the black glue underneath contain asbestos. 20% of the tile is missing or partially cracked. The tile is very thin, probably 1/8 “. I also have a 900 lbs pool table in the room. Am I forced to use glue due to the weight of the pool table? And I’d like to get planks with rubber or cork attached. Would this backing be adequate to hide the imperfections? Or would self leveling be needed in your opinion? Thanks so much!

  206. Hi Alex, thanks for the question. Yes, with that large of an open space, a glue down vinyl will be the best option for you. You will not need a vapor barrier. You will just glue the planks directly to the concrete. Just make sure the concrete is dry and in good condition before installation. For most glue down vinyls, you will find them 4mm or less, but I believe you can glue down some rigid core floors that may be thicker. Thickness will just depend on how much comfort you want underfoot. I do not have any recommendations for a self leveler, but I am sure a quick Google search will help! Best of luck with your project.

  207. Hello I want to put down a vinyl floor in my basement, which has a concrete subflooring. The basement is also prone to getting getting flooded during major storms. It’s an open basement that is over 1000 sq.ft. I believe I need to use a gule down product? Do I need to use a vapor barrier also?, if so can you recommend one?. Can you also recommend a thickness? Also I maybe need to use a self leveler, can you recommend a product for that as well? Thank you in advance…

  208. Hi Jared, thanks for the question. As long as the underlayment is acceptable for radiant heat, you can use it. Most underlayments are. With a vinyl, it is your preference if you use an underlayment for not, as long as your vinyl is 4mm or thicker. Let us know if you have any other questions!

  209. Hi. We want to install LVP on out concrete floor. We have in floor heat. Do you still want to use an underlayment?

  210. Did you end up using the DMX and if you did, did you lay your vinyl planks on top of the DMX

  211. Hi Bruce, thanks for the question. Judging from the Alterna installation guide, as long as your hardwood is fully adhered, it can be laid over top of it. If you’re grouting the tiles, you will not use an underlayment. If you have more specific installation questions, we’d recommend reaching out to Armstrong to see what they recommend for this specific floor.

  212. We want to install Alterna 16×16 tiles with grout over an existing 3/4″ hardwood floor. Approximately 1000sf, so we don’t want to take it up because of door jams, baseboard heights, etc. Is it ok to put down a underlayment like Armstrong S-1841 Quiet Comfort Floating Underlayment over the hardwood strips (2.25″ wide ) and install the tiles with grout on top?

  213. Hi Sonja, great question. If there is “food”, mold can grow. We would recommend cleaning the cement well and overlap the vinyl film at least 6″ to create airtightness. Nothing should grow in a restricted environment. You may want to call the paint manufacturer to see if it is a food source for mold. If you have any other questions, please let us know!

  214. We r laying vinyl plank flooring (Coreluxe ridgid vinyl plank-RVP flooring) on concrete which has been painted with latex kilz. We are worried about possible mold. The 6mil virgin polyethylene underlayment we are laying down keeps the moisture off the flooring, but you would still have moisture between the concrete and the underlayment which could mold correct? The concrete was painted over a year ago and a few months back we had laid a vinyl runner on the floor to use like a rug for dirty feet. Picked it up today and the paint had bubbled and the floor was moist. Granted the vinyl would not allow the concrete to breath at all. Would the plank allow any breathing so moisture could dry up so we don’t get mold. I would think the polyethylene underlayment would do the same thing as the vonyl rug did. As I said earlier, main concern is getting sick from mold. Anyway to prevent it?

  215. Hi Matthew, thanks for the question. When it comes to the subfloor, it is important to have a level surface. Vinyl planks can easily take on the shape of any imperfections in the subfloor since it is a softer material. I would recommend removing it, or leveling it with a concrete compound.

  216. Hi Helen, thanks for reaching out. With a 5mm material, you should stick to a 1.5mm or less underlayment. It should also be vinyl specific. A 3mm underlayment will be too much cushion and can affect the joint stability. You can take a look at our vinyl underlayments here:

  217. Matthew Williamson

    I am putting vinyl plank floors with an underlayment in the kitchen. Do I need to remove all the thin set from the tile I’m ripping up or can I lay the underlayment right over it then install the floor?

  218. I want to install 5mm SPC rigid core vinyl planks over concrete. I want it to be as comfortable underfoot as possible.

    The planks do not have padding attached so I am looking at a 1.5mm 2 in 1 underlayment. Then I saw a 3mm cork vapor barrier that is a “3 in 1”.

    Will both work with my vinyl? If so,
    are there noticable differences in sound and warmth between them?

    Thank you!!

  219. Hi Tom, how thick is your particle board? From your description, it seems like it might be in need of a bit of repair. You can sand areas down as long as they are level and there is enough structure to the particle board. You can also fill the cracks in with a leveling compound. The subfloor is one of the most important aspects to your installation, so it is important that it is in good shape and level. Here are our detailed directions for subfloor preparation:

  220. I am replacing wall to wall carpet with 8 mm vinyl plank. The sub-floor is particle board with signs that there had been spills that had soaked through the carpet and caused the particle board to swell. Is it acceptable to sand these areas smooth and place the vinyl plank floor on top of the bare particle board or should I use a moisture barrier?

    Also there are some seems between the particle board that may be as large as 1/8 inch. Are these seems acceptable or do I need to fill them with some self leveling material?

  221. Hi Justin, thanks for the question. I would advise against an additional underlayment, due to joint stability problems that can occur with a floating floor. Since it is an SPC product, it should withstand small subfloor imperfections, but deeper grout lines over time could create a pattern to show through. For most vinyls, we recommend no more than 1.5mm of underlayment. I would check with your installer and see what his thoughts on filling in the grout would be. This will create a smooth and level surface, without adding additional underlayment. Using two underlayments could void the warranty if any problems with the joints occur. Hope this helps!

  222. I am in the middle of having SPC vinyl planks (5mm) installed over existing tile. The planks already have 1mm sound-absorbing ixpe pad on the bottom surface. The installer is suggesting to put an additional underlayment to prevent grout from tile from showing through the planks with traffic over time. At no point has he mentioned the idea of “filling the grout” as your article suggests.

    What should I do?

  223. Thank you, Alana!

  224. Hi Betsy, thanks for the question! Since you’re going with an engineered vinyl, the floor will be dimensionally stable and should be fine to be installed over your current floor. Generally, small imperfections are fine over a rigid core vinyl. I would just advise that any areas that are curled or damaged to be properly leveled or patched. The floating floor will require a gap around the edges for expansion, which is why not 100% square walls are not a big deal. As far as the transition goes, you will need a molding to level the height difference from dining room to kitchen. It will be a raised surface, but it shouldn’t cause tripping. This is pretty standard in most homes. I think this flooring will last you! If you do not trust the installer, I would recommend getting a second opinion. Hope this helps! Best of luck with your installation.

  225. Hi – We’re having new flooring professionally installed in our kitchen. We originally were planning to have our linoleum sheet flooring (which is 50 yrs old and coming up & broken at the seams) replaced with new sheet flooring. We want something that will last another 30 years. Our floor guy sold us on going with vinyl plank flooring (Shaw Floorte Pro) instead – said it’s higher quality / more durable. When the installer came, he advised that it will be a floating floor, and that it’ll just go over our old floor without any prep needed. (We thought the old floor would be taken up, and new floor glued down.) The floating floor will result in a small height transition from our dining room into the kitchen. Right now, the transition is flat, and I see any height transition as a trip hazard. Also, the installer pointed out how our floor is not totally even, nor are the walls perfectly square (an old house). He said that floating floors are good in these situations, but I’m not so sure. We put the install on hold until we could do some research. I’ve lived in this house for over 60 years and plan on staying, so want this floor look great & be the last one. What do you think? Thanks so much!!

  226. Hi Dean, thanks for the question! Since this floor is a rigid core vinyl, you should be OK with using the foam padding and not removing the glue. The rigid core will help the flooring stay stable and not take the shape of the glue. The foam will help as well. As far as complaints go, I have no idea! This is not a product we sell. Best of luck with your install!

  227. Hello Alana. I’ve bought some 5mm Tarkett VeriCore vinyl planking with thin foam layer to put in my kitchen dining room. It had kitchen carpet before, therefore the subfloor now has a layer of glue with of course some voids in it. The thickness of glue is about that of the cardboard back of a lined notebook pad. I’ve run a sander over to remove any slight imperfections. To remove the glue would take several days with a scraper and adding underlayment would be another major job to complete. A large scraper won’t work but small one with lots of muscle will remove the glue. Can I lay the vinyl flooring over the substrate without removing the glue? I know the planking is pretty forgiving for the most part but I’m not sure about this application… Thank you. Also, have you heard of many complaints on the Tarkett Vericore planking….

  228. Hi Manji, it is hard to give you an answer without know the floor brand. Most likely, this does not have sound proofing. If you are looking for a replacement floor, you can look into a vinyl with underlayment or add a sound proofed underlayment.

  229. Hi, I just bought a Condo unit which has Vinyl flooring glued to the concrete floor. The Condo management requires sound proof padding.
    Is this Vinyl flooring sound proof?

  230. Hi Ave Maria, thanks for the question. Yes, if your linoleum is in good shape and not curling, you can install the LVT right over top of it.

  231. We are planning on gluing down lvp in our motorhome. There is a linoleum floor there now. Can we glue the lvp over that or does it need to be removed ?

  232. Hi Angie, thanks for the question! If you’re using an underlayment, that should cover any of the minor imperfections from the residue. If not, we’d recommend trying to get it as level as possible.

  233. Hi! We are installing Flooret Modin Rigid LVP throughout our home. We pulled up carpet to reveal vinyl tiles. We have removed them, but there is still a sticky residue in some of our rooms. Other than the stickiness, our subfloor is smooth and flat. Would you recommend trying to remove the adhesive residue? If so, do you have any tricks? Or could we just lay down a vapor barrier on the sticky subfloor?

  234. Hi Jason, thanks for your question. As long as your vinyl floor is over 4mm in thickness, you can opt to use a vinyl specific underlayment.This is entirely a choice. It can help add cushion and help reduce noise. Let us know if you have any other questions!

  235. I plan on installing 20 mill vinyl plank floor. It does not come with a pad. Do I need one?

  236. Hi Zach, this vinyl should be fine to install directly over the concrete, but if you want additional cushion, you can add a 1mm or less LVT specific underlayment beneath the planks.

  237. I am looking to install a 4mm think uniclic vinyl plank flooring made by jaeco products in a concrete basement. would you be recommended putting an underlayment down first or would it still be okay without that? Thanks!

  238. Hey Rich – a quarter inch plywood would hold up fine – however the flooring people at Lowe’s or Home Depot should know as well.

  239. Hello, great article. Asking for assistance, my wife and I are getting ready to install LVP (luxury Vinyl Plank) glue down flooring in our entry way. The tile we removed from the plywood subflooring needs to be replaced or covered with new. Want to make we purchase the correct plywood/subfloor for our project, what do to you suggest as I am starting to confuse myself looking at plywood online at the likes of Home Depot and Lowes.

    Thanks so much for you help.


  240. 1) It simply depends on what type of material you are looking to install. If it is laminate – no, this would not work.

    2) I would suggest filling these in with a self leveling compound from lowes or home depot.

    3) A self leveling compound and just checking various parts of the room to make sure it is level across.

  241. Hello, thanks for the article. I have three questions:
    1) I would like to avoid transition strips between rooms. Aside from the added difficulty during installation, would there be any issues with thermal expansion if the 1/4 inch spacing is maintained around and under door jambs? The longest run would be about 40 ft.
    2) After ripping up the carpets and pads, I noticed the pressed wood subflooring has thin gaps between sheets of wood, do these need to be filled in? What would you recommend I fill those in with?
    3) What’s the best way to ensure a subfloor is level and uniform?

  242. Hey Robert, unfortunately if you want to put a floating floor down, you will need to go with the self leveler. This is the only way to ensure a safe installation.

  243. Danielle. It seems like you are getting a lot of jumbled information. If you are constantly having leveling issues on the concrete, a floating floor is not going to be a fix. If you float a floor, the moisture is not going to be a huge issue because the product itself is waterproof. I am not a fan of gluing any product down though, especially if it is meant to be a floating floor.

  244. Hey Diane, cork would be a suitable underlayment for vinyl as long as there is not a pad attached already.

  245. Hey Karl. No, you do not need to remove the glue down vinyl. Just make sure that the floor is level before installing the new product.

  246. I want to install glue down LVP in my basement on the concrete subfloor, but the concrete is very out of level since the house is nearly 100 years old and the basement was hand dug. The surface is pretty flat, but it slopes nearly 2.5″ over the 19′ span. Is it ok to install glue down LVP in this scenario? The amount of self leveler needed would be ridiculous—even if I wanted to guy 80 $50 bags of self-leveler, I would be removing a huge amount of headroom in rooms with low ceilings. Any advice?

  247. Is there any situation where a painted on concrete sealant would be preferable to use on a basement concrete floor instead of an underlayment under LVP? We are renovating out basement. The slab was not level at all. A lot of self leveling concrete was put down on top of the slab to level it out. Our contractor felt that a glue down LVP would be best. The flooring guy glued a product down, but water, presumably coming from the leveling concrete, caused the floor to come loose and buckle up. All of that glue down LVP was scraped up today. They removed the adhesive from the floor and now are letting the floor “dry out” some before painting on a 100% moisture sealant before they install a new click LVP. The contractor wants to glue the click floor down as well.
    1. Is glueing it down advisable?
    2. Should an underlayment/vapor barrier be put down or should they use the painted on sealant?
    3. Our contractor has asked us to carpet one bedroom to allow any water vapor to escape there? Is this advisable? It seems like there would be wet, moldy carpet. Should we just put a sealant down and put LVP in there too?
    I’m so confused because we have been getting different information from our contractor and flooring guy.

  248. We are planning to install Luxury Vinyl planks in our first floor. Have you every heard of Invincible? Is cork a good underlayment for Luxury Vinyl or would rubber be better?

    Thank you for your assistance?

  249. i am installing a Smartcore Ultra floor in my kitchen, hallway, bathroom & laundry room. All areas currently have Armstrong vinyl inner flex that is glued only along the edges. Do I need to remove the vinyl before installation of the Smartcore Ultra?

  250. Hey AC! We would recommend putting down a visqueen vapor barrier, which is just the plastic material that goes right on the concrete.

  251. Hi! We are thinking about installing an LVT with a cork pad. Concrete subfloor in Texas. Do we need to lay anything underneath it? Would greatly appreciate the feedback!

  252. Hey Kathryn! If the floor has a cork already attached, you may only put more cork under it and nothing else. Cork can go right on concrete, but it needs a visqueen vapor barrier. I hope this helps you out!

  253. Hey Dave, great questions.

    1) If the padding attached in not waterproof, yes you can do this, but often times is unnecessary.
    2) You cannot double up on padding as it is going to cause too much give in the floor and cause it to buckle!
    3) I have never heard that and believe it to be 100% false!

  254. We are installing a floating LVT plank floor over a concrete slab floor. The LVT we purchased has a cork backing already attached. The concrete floor has lots of imperfections. Like joint lines, and a pre-stamped tile look. We plan to fill in at least the worst of it with a leveling compound. Can or should we add another underlayment under this floor? Anything else we should be aware of? I’m afraid the flooring is purchased and can’t be returned. So if there is a problem with the cork backing, is there something we should add that would make ir right? The only reason I ask is because I noticed a post above that mentioned no cork on concrete. But again, this is already attached as part of the floor. Thanks for your advice!

  255. Looking to buy either spc/wpc vinyl plank for basement. Most I have been looking at have an attached foam underlay which from my understanding acts as a vapour barrier.
    1: Would it be beneficial to lay 6mil poly vapour Barrier on concrete prior to installation?
    2:I have also been looking into a underlay product called DMX Airflow (subfloor/underlay in one) which states it’s safe for under spc/wpc that is at least 6 millimeters thick. But some vinyl manufactures say the warranty is void of additional underlay is installed. What are your thoughts on this and this product.
    3:I had a sales person say they won’t sell any spc/wpc with built in underlay because moisture can get through the seams and cause the joints to separate (this is one reason I was considering 6 mil poly if I get a product with built in underlay) is that a myth?

  256. Hey Glenn. I first off would not recommend putting a floating floor into a garage. The expansion and contraction needs a controlled temperature at all times in order to behave correctly.

  257. I am considering installing 100% waterproof rigid vinyl flooring that also has attached padding underneath to convert a concrete garage floor into a pool room. It will be a floating floor. Problem is in the 6 years we have been at our house, some water has entered the garage onto the concrete floor from very heavy rain on two separate occasions. Is this ‘100% waterproof’ flooring capable of withstanding these sorts of infrequent events where water comes in underneath, or is it only ‘waterproof’ from water entering from the surface?

  258. Hey David! Oh no! Here are a few reasons why this may be happening:

    1) There is not proper expansion around the perimeter of the room (1/4″)
    2) The floor is being run over too long of a stretch (usually 40-50 is a maximum).
    3) There is a heavy object pinning it down somewhere.

    I would recommend having your installer coming back out to check on any of these issues.

  259. I had a vinyl plank floor (SHAW brand) professionally installed in my living room and dinning room. The subfloor was plywood and in good condition. The installation is described as “floating” with “Versalock” planks. The problem is that two weeks after installation, GAPS started to appear between the planks. The whole floor is
    pulling apart both lengthwise and widthwise. Do you have any idea what could be causing this problem???

  260. Hey Danh, thank you for reaching out. It definitely depends! Does the LVP you are interested in have an attached pad? If it does the only thing you could put down is cork. If it does not, then you would want to use a padding made for LVP, not laminate. You can find a large selection of these over at

  261. HELLO

    we added an addition to our house with 3 beds. Wanting to install LVP onto the plywood subfloor

    The subfloor we have is Oriented Strand Board (Common: 19/32 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft.; Actual: 0.578 in. x 47.75 in. x 95.75 in.). Surface is rough. The corners are not all flat. What is the best underlayment should I use?

    A contractor said he only needs to sand it down and install LVP 5mm on top of it will be fine. However, I always think underlayment is better. Am I right?


  262. Hey Mike, thank you for coming to us with your flooring questions. A general rule of thumb would be you are not able to put an additional layer of padding under a floor that has a pad already attached. This is due to having too much give underneath it. This is something the manufacturer should be able to confirm for you. I hope this helped you out!

  263. Hello
    I am installing smartcore ultra …

    1/ concrete floor with poured thinset that is sandy..I can it get all of the thinset dust off it. Very light dust/sand feeling. After I shop vac it, my dog ran across it and up comes the sand dust.. just to give you an idea in fact I dont know what this stuff is.. I believe under this 1 inch layer of thinset us either cement board or concrete.

    2/ this is a second floor condo, we need noise reduction to keep noise from going downstairs

    3/ do I need a vapor barrier on second floor condo that is concrete? There is no water issue? The floor is level, but if you run your hand across it, it is sandy

    3/ smartcore ultra ..can we add underlayment to be safe? I cant get a straight answer from lowes if we can add underlayment to already padded. One rep says you can and they sell 4 different kind. He thinks the quality of smartcore ultra would not be as good as adding seperate pad. He says add pad to the already padded product.

    4/ is padded product in general equilvant to adding underlayment in terms of softness and noise? My intuition tells me seperate pad would always be better

    5,/smartcore, has an entry level product without pad, but it seems reviews are not as good as the ultra with pad..

    Thank you

  264. Hello Jessica! Thank you so much for reaching out to us with your questions!

    1) If the product is vinyl – it is alrweady waterproof – no vapor barrier needed.
    2) If the vinyl has a pad attached – no additional padding is needed.
    3) The pad generally has a vapor barrier – unless it is cork.
    4) No! This will generally void warranties.
    5) Pad attached does not always mean better. Sometimes the ones without are just as good – and our lvt pads are very cheap too 🙂
    6) You should install over linoleum in my opinion – saves a mess due to the glue from the linoleum.

    If you have any other questions please feel free to contact.

  265. Hi!,
    i just bought a new house and want to replace the flooring on the bottom floor with luxury vinyl. Its currently Laminate wood plank in the dining room hall and bathroom, then linoleum in the kitchen and carpet in the living room. I was to change the whole 1st floor to luxury vinyl plank for a seamless look and waterproof since it will be in the half bath and kitchen. The house is built on a concrete slab. I’ve been researching and could use some advice.
    1) do i need to use an underlayment that is a vapor barrier?
    2) do i need to use an underlayment if the planks i choose have a attached pad?
    3) if i got one with an attached pad does that create the vapor barrier?
    4) can i use a plank with an attached pad and still use an underlayment?
    5) if the price of a plank without underlayment ends up being less then with the underlayment then the plank with attached pad then which is the better option?
    6) i read you can install the vinyl planks over linoleum so should i remove the linoleum in my kitchen to make the floor even with the other rooms or can i just leave it? could that substitute as a vapor barrier?
    Thanks! know its a lot of questions but i want to do it right!

  266. Hey Jack, great questions. While I do not believe either of them are actually correct, neither are wrong. Any floor that has a very bad subfloor is not going to be good to install a floating floor over. The best way to keep this from effecting your floor would be to use a leveling agent or putting another layer of subfloor down. A floor with a pad attached may help some, but if it is very bad, nothing will help all that much. I hope this answered your questions!

  267. Hey Mark. Any high density foam meant for vinyl floors is going to help hide any imperfections. Using the cork is going to do just that as well as cork is very dense and will help any imperfections. Leveling agents should really be your last option to level the floor. Thank you for reaching out and please reach out if you have any other questions.

  268. I plan to use the click-lock vinyl planks in a bathroom. The subfloor is wood and has some areas where the planks are not level or cupped. My question is whether to simply use a leveling compound over that or if 1/4″ luan would be required. Also you mentioned earlier about using a cork underlayment as an alternative to the luan. That would be great, but would like to know more about that approach.

  269. Hi,

    My wife and I have a rental house that was originally built pre 1900. There are 4 bedrooms in which we want to install an LVP product. In every room the floor is not level and is not smooth. We were told by 1 contractor that he won’t install LVP with an attached pad on these floors. He insisted that the only option is an LVP product with no pad. His product is a Mohawk line called Luminous Beauty; thickness 5.5mm and a wear layer of 8 mils.
    Another contractor told us the exact opposite; we need an LVP product with a pad to hide the waves and unevenness. That product is also Mohawk line called SolidTech True Vision; thickness 6.5 mm and a wear layer of 20 mils.

    Who is right? Can LVP be installed on a floor that is both uneven and not smooth? If yes, which product do we need? A pad based product or no pad? Thank you.

  270. Hi James, thanks for reaching out! You can certainly go ahead and add a layer of Wonderboard to help even out the subfloor. You can apply thinset over the screws and joints, to ensure the subfloor is completely level prior to installing your flooring. Depending on the condition of your subfloor, another option to consider is a thick cork underlayment. Please let us know if you have any other questions!

  271. I want to install an 8mm thick floating LVT plank floor (Coretec Plus) over a plywood subfloor in an old house. The subfloor is uneven so I intend to put down 1/4” Wonderboard first to try and smooth it out. I did this before with a tile floor and put thinset down as a bed/adhesive for the Wonderboard – also screwed it. Do you think I need to prep the Wonderboard like I did for tile, or can I just apply thinset over the screws and joints so they don’t show through the LVT?

  272. Hi Jen, thanks for reaching out. With any floating floor, it is important to have a smooth and seamless subfloor surface for installation. With tile, if the grout line is more than 1/8″ deep, we recommend filling the grout lines with grout or a floor leveling compound to create a smooth surface. This way, the flooring installed on top will be smooth and seamless as well. Underlayment can be installed for additional cushioning and sound dampening, however it will not repair an uneven subfloor. Hope this helps!

  273. Hi, I would like to install two thousand square feet of looselay LVT by karndean on my floor in my home. The lvt is going directly on top of old terrazzo floor in some areas and hn sealed concrete in others. My problem is that the terrazzo which we thought was totally flat is not. It was poured in 4ft by 4ft sections and so there is a grid likepattern wave that is coming thru the lvt when layed directly on top. The room has a lot of windows and so these waves are exaggerated when the light comes thru. We have a sample of rigid core lvt, and that is hard enough to hide the patern underneath but the looselay that we want does not come in a rigid core. Is there a rigid underlayment that could hide these imperfections? Or any other underlayment that would do the job?

  274. Hi David, thanks for reaching out. The best and easiest option will be to put down a layer of OSB or particle board on top of your plywood subfloor, glue it down or use a nail gun, and install the Coretec directly on top. This will definitely help with reducing foot fall noise. If you have any other questions, please give us a call! Thank you!

  275. I want to put down floating CoreTec Plus Enhanced Dorado LVT over an advantech subfloor, next to 3/4″ hardwood flooring. I want to raise the level of the 8.0 mm thick Coretec up to match the hardwood and also do everything I can to reduce foot fall noise.

    Have you heard of screwing down plywood with green glue damping compound between the plywood and subfloor?

    I have a bunch of 2mm rubber underlayment that I got for free. Can I use this as a layer somewhere in the mix as well? Perhaps glue down the rubber instead of green glue compound, then plywood, then float the LVT on the plywood?

  276. Hi Sky, thanks for reaching out. When installing on a cement subfloor, we recommend using a vapor barrier underlayment to prevent moisture from seeping up from the subfloor and sitting beneath your flooring. For your project, we would recommend Bestlaminate Pro-Line Premium LVT Underlayment. It is a great choice, and will provide moisture protection, cushioning, noise reduction and help even minor subfloor imperfections. This underlayment is all in one, so you will not need any additional vapor barrier such as Visqueen. We hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any other questions.

  277. Hi, thanks so much for reaching out with your questions!

    1. If the attached underlayment is scratched or appears to be dented, it is still okay to install as long as the underlayment covers the full surface of your flooring. It is normal for underlayment to get lightly dented or scratched in transit, however if it is ripped and the flooring is exposed, that is damage and you may want to consult with the store where you purchased your flooring. We do not recommend installing planks that have holes or areas of the underlayment missing. Vinyl plank flooring is a floating floor, so it is important to have underlayment across the entire surface of your flooring.

    2. We recommend using a vapor barrier on a cement subfloor, to prevent moisture from seeping up and sitting beneath your flooring. Since your subfloor is wood, you will not need a moisture barrier underlayment. The underlayment that is already attached to your flooring will provide additional cushioning and noise reduction. Please make sure that your subfloor is level and smooth prior to installation, this is key to a long lasting floor!

    3. The underlayment that is pre-attached to your flooring will provide cushioning and noise reduction. We do not recommend installing an additional layer of underlayment beneath your flooring, as this would create too much cushioning and you would risk damaging the joints and locking system of your flooring. Unfortunately we do not carry Paradigm flooring, so we can’t provide any additional details about that specific underlayment, but generally speaking, it will provide basic cushioning and noise reduction for your project. Another option would be to install a heavy duty underlayment and flooring with no attached pad, however it sounds like you have already purchased the flooring.

    We hope this helps with your concerns! If you have any other questions, please give us a call at 1-800-520-0961. Thank you!

  278. We are planning to change out the carpet in our 1000 sqft condo and replace it with vinyl click-plank. So far, we are going with Paradigm Longboard vinyl click-plank, which is rated for “heavy commercial” wear and has an attached pad/underlayment. The attached pad is a black rubbery man-made material, it is not cork.

    Product: WPC Flooring / Engineered Vinyl Plank with EVA Foam
    Gauge: 8.5mm With Pad (7mm w/o attached pad, I think)
    Wear Layer: 20MIL
    Finish: Urethane Ceramic Bead
    Construction: Water Proof Core With Pad Attached
    Warranty: Lifetime Residential, 15 Year Commercial


    1) On about 10 of the planks (right out of the box), the attached pad appears to have been damaged. It looks like it has been scratched/smooshed in some spots on the plank. For example, on one plank it looks like the pad was pushed to the point of tearing and there is a spot of about 1″ square of the vinyl plank exposed. (The pad material is there, it is just torn and pushed back to reveal an inch of the vinyl underside)
    On another plank, it has 3 smaller nicks about the circumference of a pencil eraser, where the vinyl is exposed and the pad material is missing.
    — A) Are these planks considered “damaged,” or is this normal for some planks to be like this?
    — B) If installed, could these spots cause noise, compromised moisture barrier, or other issues?
    — C) Essentially, are these planks ok for use or should they be set aside and NOT be used for installation?
    — D) Could these particular planks be set-aside to be cut and only the intact portions used?

    2) Our condo has wooden sub-floors. However, due to building settling, our floors ARE very unlevel and also uneven. Our contractor will be using an extensive amount of self-leveling concrete to prepare our sub-floor (as well as replacing any plywood that needs it). Because (as I understand it) the wooden sub-floor will now be covered with the self-leveling concrete, does this mean that we should treat it as a “concrete sub-floor”? We don’t know the ins and outs of floor preparation but, in our instance, we are imagining that 80-100% of our sub-floor will indeed be covered with some amount of self-leveling concrete. We live in Southern California, so we have hot weather rather than rainy weather (low likelihood of weather-related flood in our unit). The vinyl flooring is NOT being installed in the kitchen or bathrooms.
    — A) Do we want to install a moisture barrier?
    — B) What product(s) would you recommend?

    3) We are on the third floor and want to be as noise-conscious as possible. Our contractor suggested adding cork underlayment under our vinyl click-plank floor. However, our particular product has an attached (non-cork) pad. It is possible our contractor has not worked with this particular vinyl product before — hence his suggestion.
    — A) When using vinyl click-plank with an attached pad, one should NOT use an additional underlayment, correct?
    — B) Do you have any idea what the attached padding might be made of? I.e. what it’s sound dampening quality may be? (Unfortunately, Paradigm only lists STC/IIC ratings for their residential 7mm planks – not the planks+pad version)
    — C) Is there anything else we can do to help our flooring be more noise dampening?

    Thanks in advance! This is a great site you have here! 😀

  279. Hello! We’ll be installing CoreLuxe 5.5mm EVP flooring (click together, not glue down) in our finished daylight basement over concrete floors. We ripped up the previous carpet and will be scraping off all glue, etc, to properly prep prior to installation. The install guide for our flooring says the following for concrete subfloor: “Moisture protection for floating floor installations should be a minimum 6mil virgin polyethylene. Seams should be OVERLAPPED 8” and taped using a waterproof adhesive tape (duct tape). This vapor barrier should be installed up the wall at least 1 inch.”

    Then, later on in the install guide it says the following for underlayment: “Underlayment padding is not required for the installation of this product. However, our Tranquility underlayments referenced below may be used to help smooth out minor subfloor imperfections, while offering insulating and sound control properties. Tranquility Ultra and Tranquility LVT underlayments are recommended for this product.”

    We definitely don’t want to buy overpriced Tranquility products so my question is do we need to purchase your Visqueen Vapor Block PE Film Flooring Underlayment in addition to your Bestlaminate Pro-Line Premium LVT Underlayment or will that be too much cushion under the engineered vinyl flooring? Will just buying one like the Pro-Line Premium LVT Underlayment provide that needed vapor barrier between the vinyl and the concrete subfloor or will only installing the Visqueen Vapor Block provide that barrier and also some warmth/cushionioning?

    Thank you in advance!

  280. Hi Diane, thanks for reaching out. When installing on a OSB, you will not need to use a moisture barrier underlayment. You can go ahead and install vinyl plank flooring directly on the plywood subfloor. You can use underlayment if you would like additional cushioning and noise reduction, but moisture seeping up from the cement subfloor should not be a concern. Just to clarify – vinyl plank flooring is a floating and clicking floor. The planks click together, to create a floating surface. Hope this helps! Please give us a call if you have any further questions.

  281. Hi there,
    We are looking at installing either click vinyl or loose lay vinyl planks in our basement. It’s a poured concrete basement, with Delta FL membrane over the concrete and a layer of 7/8″ blue wood OSB over that. It was originally designed for carpet tile but of course changed our mind and are looking at vinyl options now. Question is is that there is a bathroom with shower with same type of sub flooring. Do we need to be concerned about moisture seeping through either the click or floating vinyl onto blue wood OSB or should be put a waterproof underlay?? is one vinyl (click or floating) better for the bathroom? Can we even just paint the blue wood OSB with waterproof deck paint and then install vinyl over it in the bathroom??


  282. Hi Bruce, thanks for your comment. Vinyl plank flooring that is not glued down must be installed on a smooth and flat subfloor. Without seeing your existing hardwood flooring, it is hard for us to say if it is safe to install vinyl plank flooring directly on top. The main concern is the joint integrity of your flooring. If the subfloor is uneven, there is a risk that your new flooring might buckle or separate at the joints due to the uneven subfloor. Underlayment can be used beneath your vinyl to correct minor subfloor imperfections, but it really depends on the current state of your hardwood. Hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any further questions.

  283. Can self stick vinyl planks be install over slightly cupped hardwood floors. We were going to refinish the hardwood flooring but thought this to be a more inexpensive option

  284. Hi Corinne, thanks for reaching out. Unfortunately it is hard to tell what is causing the swelling in your subfloor. Generally, swelling is caused by moisture, so it might be helpful to get a home inspector to come in and take a look at what is causing the issue. Here at Bestlaminate, we do not sell roll vinyl. We specialize in vinyl plank flooring, and when installing, we recommend using a vapor barrier underlayment on plywood subfloor, as this will help prevent any moisture damage. We hope this helps, and please don’t hesitate to give us a call with any further questions.

  285. We moved into our house about 6 months ago. Prior to moving in, we tore out this old, nasty, ripped and stained carpeting from the 1980s that was in a couple rooms. Due to being on a tight budget from just buying the house, we replaced it with roll vinyl. It made the rooms look worlds better while being fast to install and within our budget at the time. We only glued it down in the corners as that was what was recommended to us from the home improvement store we got the flooring from. Now we have these big humps in our floor where the plywood subfloor swelled. Most of these humps average 6-8 inches in diameter and average about 1 inch in height. These are bedrooms, so there haven’t been any spills or leaky pipes, or any excessive contact with water. We know that we’ll have to replace those sections of the subfloor, but we don’t know what caused it, and therefore how we can prevent it in the future. This isn’t a problem we want to deal with more than once. We live in a hot, humid area. Our house is on pier and beam (raised about 2 feet off the ground) and has insulation on the bottom side of the house. The air conditioner that also helps control humidity is running basically 24/7. Do you have any advice on what we can do to prevent this from happening again, to make sure we do it correctly this time?

  286. Hi Joe, thanks for reaching out. Generally speaking, underlayment will help with reducing noise by providing sound absorption, provide some thermal insulation, and provide a moisture barrier from your cement subfloor. Underlayment does make a significant difference, and we believe it would help address the concerns you mentioned. You can opt for a vinyl with pre-attached underlayment, or simply add underlayment beneath the flooring you are installing. You can take a look at our vinyl underlayment options here:!/p=1&underlayment_use=327

  287. Hi, I’m considering going with LVP and see that some products have attached foam backing on their planks. Does the foam backing give a noticeable difference? I’m installing this over a concrete slab and want to make sure it will actually be warm, comfortable to stand on, and wont make a bunch of noise when I walk on it.

    Thanks for your help!

  288. Hi Jill, thanks for your question. You do not need a vapor barrier, but it doesn’t hurt to install one. We’d recommend going with this Visqueen Vapor Barrier: For a few extra dollars, we typically recommend being safe than sorry!

  289. Hi – We are planning to install NuCore Driftwood Oak Plank with Cork Back over a concret slab. Because it has a Cork Back, is a vapor barrier recommended? We live in Fort Worth, TX, where it can get humid but are new to the state, so am not sure how that can affect flooring.

  290. Hi Shawn, thanks for your question. After researching the Delta-FL, I would not recommend using this under your vinyl. There’s a few reasons. First, it’s not a flat surface. Second, it is way too thick to go under a vinyl flooring at 8mm. Lastly, it only specifies usage with laminates. What we would recommend is either a Visqueen Film: Vapor Barrier LVT underlay like this:

  291. We are planning to install Click and lock vinyl plank flooring over our concrete basement floor. We have had moisture, but never any water. Would Delta-FL work as a vapor barrier, and keep the floor from moving?

  292. Hi Jennifer, thanks for the question! Since your plywood is below grade and has no vapor protection, I would recommend laying a vapor barrier on top of the plywood. In most cases you can install the vinyl directly over the subfloor, but since you are below grade with plywood (usually it is cement), it is recommended to use one. Let us know if you have any other questions!

  293. Hi, I’m wanting to install vinyl plank flooring over our bare plywood floor in the basement. I bought my house and the previous owner did a partial finish. The original flooring in the basement is dirt, they build a plywood subfloor above it which is nicely framed. But I have no idea if there’s a vapor barrier underneath. I know not to lay vb over plywood, Would it be ok to go ahead and install the vinyl plank flooring? I know they sometimes come with a built in moisture barrier. Please advise!! Thank you!!!

  294. Hi Phil, thanks for the question! Concrete is porous, so it’s not surprising that you are waiting for it to dry. You will not need to re-seal the concrete, but you will need to wait until the concrete is dry and moisture emissions should not exceed 5.0 lbs per 1000 sq. ft. for 24 hours and should not exceed a relative humidity of 85%. Most LVT’s can be installed directly over the concrete, however some manufacturers recommend using a 6 mil polyfilm moisture barrier to help prevent the growth of mold and mildew beneath the planks. I would take a look at the manufacturer instructions for your LVT and see what they recommend! It won’t do any harm if you do install it 🙂

  295. Hi! I think I’ve become confused. We recently had a water line break in our basement and it destroyed the laminate. Everything has now been removed and the basement is drying, with fans and humidifiers on. The concrete looks very good, nice and level, no glue, no cracks. Of course there are water stains everywhere. The concrete had previously been primed (sealed) but we have no idea what was used.
    We want to use LVP floating floor, but do we have to re-seal the concrete? Or is a 6 mil vapor barrier sufficient? I’ve also heard that no vapor barrier may be needed at all. Very confused and looking for non-biased help so we can tell contractors what WE want rather than going by their favorite way of doing things!


  296. Hi Michael, thanks for your question. With most vinyls, you do not need an underlayment. You can install directly over the subfloor. The manufacturer instructions for this particular product say you do not need it. If you want to add softness to the flooring or help with noise, then you could add the underlayment. You will be installing over concrete, so keep in mind that it will probably have a hard feel! A bit of cushion will make it feel a little softer. That said, completely up to you! Not necessary, but it adds comfort.

  297. Hello, we are going to be installing 7mm Copper Barrel Oak EVP and I am being somewhat pressured into buying an underlayment to keep the clicking down. This will be in our basement where we will have a pool table and media room for teenagers. I am not sure if I really need to spend the extra money or the extra time to put it down. Thoughts?

  298. Hi Heather! Great question. A vinyl is a perfect option for wet areas such as your bathroom and kitchen. We have some really stunning vinyls in our inventory…you won’t believe how the technology has changed! You can now find vinyls that are thicker, have attached padding and handscraped textures. Some vinyls can use an LVT underlayment for more cushion and sound, but you do not need a moisture barrier for vinyl. If you have a specific look in mind, I’d be happy to help find you some options! Here is a link to our selection:

  299. I want to install new flooring throughout my house including potential wet areas like the kitchen & bathrooms. What would be the best solution and do I need a underlayment for cushion/sound and moisture barrier?

  300. Hi Barbara, great question. Yes, your flooring should be level and without any bumps. Depending on how thin your vinyl is, it could be raised in the places you have glue. An underlayment will help with minor imperfections, but an LVP underlayment is only 1.5mm or less, so it will not cover much! We’d recommend trying to get as much glue off as possible for a smooth surface.

  301. Barbara Blumetti

    We are having interlocking vinyl planking in an office over a dry cement floor. There is some residue of dry glue from the previous carpeting. Does the floor need to be sanded before the vinyl planks are installed? Would an underlayment help?

  302. Hi Jack, thanks for your question! The best way to hide it will probably be on the edges where you have an expansion gap. You can just cover it with a molding.

  303. Planning on using LVT. Our floor is flat except where there is a TV cable running on the floor( between room and hall – both will have LVT) If I used a pad I could place it in the seam – or is there anther way?

  304. Hi John, thanks for your question. We would recommend buying a floating vinyl floor instead of cementing tiles down, and installing it on top of your hardwood.

  305. We are planning on cementing down Luxury Vinyl planks. We are replacing a 3/4 inch hardwood floor. What would be a good product to raise the subfloor the 3/4″? We don’t want to replace all door jambs etc.

  306. Yes, flat AND leveled! Thanks for pointing that out.

  307. Flat not Level

  308. Hi Debbie, we’re sorry to hear about this! Properly preparing the subfloor is extremely important before you install flooring. It should be completely flat & level to start. The flooring installers should not have installed your flooring if the subfloor had this dip. We would recommend asking them to fix it to avoid any other issues, such as buckling or gapping at the joints due to constant pressure and movement. Hope this helps!

  309. I recently had floating vinyl plank flooring installed in a new home. There are many areas where it is noises when walked on I only weigh a hundred pounds and several areas where when I walk on it it is visably moving. Put a level on it and you can see the dip in the flooring. The company that installed it said they would leave it alone and nothing will happen. Otherwise they have to pull up bad areas and fill in dips or grind others areas. Very unhappy with entire job. Makes sense if you walk on an area that dips long enough you will damage surface.

  310. Hi Kevin! We recommend to have your sub-floor completely leveled before installing a new floor. Since the flooring you are looking to install already has the underlayment built into the planks, you should not use any other underlayment. If you are concerned that the sub-floor will not be level enough with the staples being hammered down, we recommend looking into a self-leveling product at your local home improvement store to level out any sub-floor imperfections. If you have any other questions or would like to discuss this in more detail, please don’t hesitate to give us a call at 1-800-520-0961. Best of luck with your project!

  311. I am looking to install click-and-lock vinyl plank flooring with the float built into to the planks (overall thickness is 0.315″). My existing subfloor has about 500 small staples in it due to the previous floor being installed incorrectly. I can hammer the staples down to be fairly flush, but it will never be totally flush. Can I install these planks over the subfloor with the staples being hammered down, or should I put some sort of underlay down first?

  312. Hi Teresa, with an EVP, we generally recommend only using an underlayment that is 1.5mm thick or less and ones that are specific to vinyl flooring. We have a very affordable option that is sound rated and includes moisture barrier protection. You can find it here:

  313. I purchased Coreluxe XD 7mm Acacia EVP for my upstairs and basement. The salesman said I should use an underlayment, the guide says you can don’t have to use it but if you want extra sound barrier etc to only use Tranquility Ultra and Tranquility LVT underlayment’s. That’s $70.00 for 100 sq. ft. I need 1800 sq ft. The ultra is only 1.5 mm thick. I have 900 sq. ft of Pergo Gold 3mm that is new never opened that I had planned to use for part of it. Is there any reason why I shouldnt go ahead and use the Pergo Gold? I cant afford to pay over $1000.00 just for underlayment. I’ve already spent over $5000.00 in flooring. I appreciate a quick response we are in the middle of this project due to a flood.

  314. Hi Elsa – We would recommend underlayment under floating vinyl planks because it adds not only a sound barrier, but insulation, cushioning, and an overall better floating surface for your vinyl. While it is an added expense while installing floating vinyl flooring, you will find it’s definitely worth it! You will find many manufacturers are seeing the benefits of adding underlayment to vinyl flooring, that they’re pre-attaching it to their vinyl – Like COREtec! You can find our selection of LVT underlayment on our website. If you would like help purchasing, please give us a call at 1-800-520-0961 or email us at [email protected].

  315. We build houses and had been using laminate flooring. We plan to switch to LVP on our next projects. Friends of mine thinks that underlayment is unnecessary added expense. However, I noticed that you mention underlayment as sound barrier. If the concrete is clean and smooth, would there be a click-clack sound on the LVP?

  316. Hi Deborah – In your circumstance, it is actually preferred that you glue down your vinyl flooring. There would be no issues if you glued your click-lock vinyl flooring. We would recommend that you purchase a flooring adhesive that is made specifically for vinyl flooring – which can be purchase at any hardware or home improvement store – and install your vinyl flooring by removing any underlayment (if you installed any) and gluing it directly to the sub floor. Be sure to follow our Glue-Down Vinyl Installation Guide for the best results. Good luck on your installation!

  317. We installed Versa Luxury click vinyl in our motorhome only to realize after that it isn’t recommended because od temp changes.
    It does separate. Hubby wants to glue it. What issues might we have if we do thst?

  318. Hi Tess – Excellent question! If you are installing any OSB, be sure to use luan on top of those. Otherwise, the glue down vinyl could show the bumps and dips of the uneven surface of the OBS. As for the concrete slabs, you can install glue down directly on concrete so long as it’s free of cracks and is even. If you have any further questions, please reply to this comment or send us an email to [email protected]!

  319. I am selecting LVT flooring for new a construction townhome project. I wanted a glue down application. Some of these buildings will have basements, some are slab on grade and all have a main floor and second floor. In this type of new construction where would luan be needed before installing the LVT flooring?

  320. Hi Brian, thanks for your question. Unfortunately, your best option is to remove the glue marks. Due to the thickness of your vinyl, an underlayment will create stress on the locking systems and joints, create an unstable floating floor. We would recommend looking into a thicker LVT floor, or a WPC vinyl option if you didn’t already purchase. With a thicker LVT, you may be able to use a thin underlayment, but we can’t guarantee that with pressure overtime, the glue marks will not make an imprint. Going with a thicker WPC vinyl would be your best bet, and should not leave an imprint overtime. Let us know if you have any other questions. Best of luck with your project.

  321. I am wanting to install Versa Lock Luxury Vinyl Plank system in my basement. I previously had carpet and once removing the carpet there seems to be a lot of the old glue marks on the concrete floor. I was told that installing the planks would leave impressions from the glue over time. I would rather not bother with removing the glue and all the prep work. Will adding a felt pad with moisture barrier eliminate the need to prep the floor by removing the old glue? The vinyl planks are 0.1259 in. thick. What kind of felt pad (thickness) would I need and will this eliminate having to prep the floor? The glue is not really that terrible with the exception of a few spots.

  322. Hello Paul – It would depend on how the vinyl tile is laid down on top of your plywood subfloor. If it is glued down to the subfloor, it should be safe to install a floating vinyl plank floor on top of it. If it is a floating vinyl tile flooring, you would need to remove it before you install another floating vinyl tile flooring. Regardless, be sure your subfloor is clean and free of cracks, dips, and major structure issues. If you need further help, please feel free to email us at [email protected] or reply to this comment!

  323. I have vinyl tile installed directly on top the plywood subfloor in my kitchen. can I install the floating vinyl plank flooring directly over the vinyl tile? or do I need to remove all of the vinyl tile first?

  324. Hi Danielle – I am sorry to hear that this is happening to your COREtec floor. Cork is not a moisture barrier. If you are installing over a concrete slab with cork underlayment, we recommend you use first lay down a vapor barrier, like Visqueen Vapor Block before installing your floor. Cork holds onto moisture and can create mold. Whoever told you that cork underlayment was moisture resistant was incorrect. If you need help purchasing any new material or any Visqueen, please give us a call at 1-800-520-0961.

  325. My coretec with a cork “moisture barrier” backing warped because of very slight moisture through my slab foundation. And it’s happened twice. The first floor was replaced less than a year after installation. We were tild it was a bad batch and only the Montrise Oak was doing it. It was replaced, and within a week it started warping again, but so far only over the areas where they placed a leveling compound. That tells me it’s moisture. Which means it will likely happen again on the rest of the floor. So I call BS on the cork “moisture barrier.”

  326. Thanks for clarifying, Vinh! For vinyl, you have to be careful with underlayment thickness. The two links I sent you are the only ones we sell that we recommend for vinyl and will provide a nice cushion for the floor. A cork can often be too cushioned for a standard vinyl. If you are looking into an engineered WPC vinyl that is thicker than a standard vinyl, you may be able to use a thin cork underlayment as COREtec does. A cork under 1.5mm would probably be your best bet. You would need to check with the manufacturer first before installing, as some brands have different specifications. Hope this helped to clarify!

  327. thanks for the info and reply. I should have described better but when I stated “soft step,” I was not referring to stairs but the feel of the vinyl plank when you step on it. I’ve stepped on some and it feels like stepping directly on concrete and others where it has a slight give that feels like real wood. looks like your links are foam but I see you also state cork is good. I’ve also seen rubber and felt. when worrying about a soft feel when we walk, what material is best? thanks

  328. Hi Vinh, I will be happy to answer these questions for you! When it comes to stairs, it’s not recommended to use underlayment. If you want a softer feel, we’d recommend going with a WPC vinyl that has an attached cork backing, such as COREtec. With COREtec floors, you are able to leave the cork underlayment on when you install on stairs. When it comes to click lock vinyl, underlayment isn’t required, and can often void your warranty. Since vinyl planks are not as thick as other flooring types, having cushioning under it can affects the strength of the joints since they are thin. If you want cushion and sound dampening, there are vinyl specific underlayments that are 1mm. Here are those options:; We’d recommend looking at manufacturer specifications before buying underalyment! Hope this helps…feel free to contact us at 800-520-0961 if you have any additional questions.

  329. I want to install floating, click lock, luxury vinyl planks on concrete but have had a hard time finding answers to 2 questions. One, is what underlayment material is best when wanting to make sure steps are soft. Second, is what are the pro’s and con’s of attached underlayment and if attached or traditional is better? Appreciate any assistance you could provide.

  330. Hi Mike, thanks for your question. Prolonged exposure to moisture can cause mold between the underlayment and subfloor. This tends to happen if concrete becomes cracked, you experience a flood or some type of leak that water is stuck within the underlayment and subfloor. A properly sealed concrete subfloor should not emit enough moisture to cause mold. I hope this helps answer your question!

  331. Hi Alana,

    Wouldn’t mold grow between the underlayment and concrete if your floor gets a little damp?

  332. Hi Bob – Thank you for your question. We recommend getting in touch with the retailer who sold you the floor and the manufacturer of the floor. They will be the best people to help you.

  333. I have a “floating” 4.0 mm LVT plank floor (FreeFit) installed on a concrete (basement) floor that I was advised to glue down everywhere after the edges of some of the planks were not laying flat, but were slightly lifting up along at the ends of the planks. There have been no water or moisture issues. The concrete floor is relatively new and completely smooth and flat and there is insulation in place between the ground and the concrete. The recommended gluing technique was a “standard releasable method” that was designed to allow individual planks to be readily removed and replaced if they were ever damaged, not a “wet lay” installation. Unfortunately, I now have the opposite issue. The planks are now “cupping” with the center areas of a large number of the planks toward the ends having lifted off the floor. Two questions. What causes this type of “cupping” and is there any way the floor can be fixed at this point so that it will lay flat?

  334. Hi Julee, great question! As long as your current floors are level, sturdy and free of damage, you should be fine to install an LVT over top of it. I am no familiar with what a fabricated floor is exactly, but it should work as a subfloor if it is a stable material that will not be expanding or contracting. Let us know if you have any other questions!

  335. I want to lay LVT in my living room. I have fabricated wood flooring in there now. I have been told that the fabricated floor was glued down and will be really expensive to remove and fix the subfloor. The is an upstairs room. . One estimate suggested I leave the wood floor and float the LVT on top of it. Thoughts on this? Have you seen this done before. Thanks

  336. Hi Dan – A concrete subfloor is a perfectly good subfloor for new flooring. The noise very well could be that your vinyl flooring is hitting the subfloor when it is being walked on, creating the click-clack sound. I don’t know if you installed the flooring yourself, or if you had it professionally installed. But I would recommend having a professional come out to assess the problem and to fix the issue.

    I believe it is one of two issues. Either your subfloor is not completely level or there is no underlayment present between your subfloor and vinyl flooring. While you do not necessarily need an underlayment under vinyl, it can help with sound reduction and cushioning and filling minor subfloor imperfections. We would recommend looking into Floor Muffler LVT or Perfect Mat LVT, should you need an underlayment. I hope this helps you!

  337. I just had a vinyl Plank floor installed over my concrete slab. Waliking on the new floor I hear a clacking or clicking noise over some of the planks. This was not mentioned to me by the sales person. Did I require a sub floor before they installed the vinyl plank? I’m not happy about this clicking sound. It sound like the Planck is hitting the concrete floor. What can be done ?

  338. Hi David – They look to both be vinyl + WPC floors with cork padding attached. It looks like the difference is that Nucore floors are thinner than COREtec floors. They might also have different wear layers, but I can’t seem to find this information online. Nucore is a Floor&Decor exclusive flooring, while COREtec is a reputable big name brand of flooring. If you have any questions about COREtec flooring, we would love to help you! Give us a call at 1-800-520-0961!

  339. What is the difference between Nucor and Cortec flooring.

  340. Hi Helen – You want your sub floor to be as even as possible, so we would recommend filling in the grout lines. Make sure your installer verifies that both your concrete and ceramic sub floors are level and free of damage. As for the transition between hallway and bedrooms, I don’t have a picture or measurements, so I don’t know how big is the drop. Best case scenario, you can use a reducer molding to create a slope down between the levels. If the drop is bigger than a reducer can handle however, you may have to remove the ceramic tile and level your entire subfloor.

    I would highly recommend speaking with the person in charge of your installation to confirm what is the best for your situation. Please remember I am making suggestions based off of what I know about WPC flooring and not about what I have seen in your home so I can only make suggestions and assumptions. I do hope this helps you communicate with your installer better to get your installation finished. Good luck!

  341. Hi. I purchased the Vesdura 8.5mm WPC click lock flooring. I have had mixed reviews from installers on whether the ceramic tile it is going over needs to be floated before the floor is laid. With this being said the grout lines in the ceramic tile are not deep but it is a grout line so it is not a totally smooth surface. Should I float it? I also would like to find out how to do the transition from ceramic tile to the concrete subfloor? It is a noticeable drop from hallway (which is ceramic tile) to bedrooms (which previously had laminate click lock flooring but removed as per one installer’s requests) he has since become MIA, so we are now starting from square one with someone else. I am going to put the floor throughout the house in one direction. Could you help me out with this so that we don’t make the mistake of laying these floors which are expensive at the end of the day without the proper pre installation required. We don’t want to save a penny to have to pay a dime later. So the cost of what we need to do is not really an issue we just want it done right so that it stays in place with no buckling, lifting etc.. Thank you so much for your time.

  342. Hi Andrea, thanks for your question! With a concrete subfloor, you could use an engineered hardwood, laminate or vinyl floor. For an engineered hardwood and laminate, you will need an underlayment with a vapor barrier. Several of our vapor barrier underlayments also have sound dampening technology built in. Here are a few options:; and If you want to look into an engineered hardwood, we have a great sale going on right now: These are installed just like a laminate and have a real hardwood top surface. Let us know if you have any additional questions!

  343. We are building a berm home and I was wondering if I will need some sort of underlayment since the subfloor will be concrete? I don’t want it to sound hollow when you walk on it. I want to use hardwood, but have been told that I can’t on a concrete subfloor… do you have any suggestions on what would look and feel the most like hardwood in my situation? I’m stuck!

  344. Hi Larry, your OSB subfloor should be all you need for this installation. A peel and stick vinyl can be laid right on top of the subfloor.

  345. I want to use stick-on vinyl in my laundry room where we just removed ceramic tile. The sub-floor is strand board. Do I need to lay luan first or an underlayment or both? Thank you!

  346. You’re welcome Cindy! Best of luck with your project.

  347. This information really helps.Thank you .

  348. Thank you

  349. Hi Cindy, thanks for the information! It is important to have a stable, undamaged and level subfloor before installing your vinyl. Depending on the amount of water damage, you may want to replace or repair the subfloor in those areas. It will also be important to remove the glue being left behind, as it has a potential to create an uneven look with your floors. Once your subfloors are level and undamaged, you can click your flooring right over the subfloor. If you think moisture under the planks will be an issue, we recommend laying a vapor barrier film above the subfloor ( Lastly, here’s a helpful guide that walks you through installation: Hope this helps! Let us know if you have any additional questions.

  350. Thank you for responding. It’s a wood subfloor modular home. In the master bathroom. We will be removing all of it so that the floor will be even. There was water damage around the shower. Also, some of the peel and stick is coming up. It is a cheap type bought from a dollar store. Thanks for your help

  351. Hi Cindy – We need a little bit more information to better help answer your question. Could you please provide me with the following answers and either reply to this comment on the blog or send an email to [email protected] and we will be happy to help you!

    – What type of subfloor do you have?
    – Where are you installing your vinyl flooring?
    – Have you removed all of the peel and stick vinyl?
    – What type of damage did the peel and stick vinyl sustain (i.e. water damage, lack of adhesive, puncture marks)

    Look forward to hearing from you!

  352. Hello, we currently have peel and stick vinyl on the floor that we need to take up. There are some damaged tiles. It is leaving the glue residue behind. We have purchased luxury vinyl tiles, click type. How would I prep the floor and do I need any underlayment for it? Thank you in advanced for your help.

  353. Hi Hamed – Based on our knowledge, there is no glue required for loose lay vinyl. Some people use double-sided sticky tape or Liquid Nails adhesive around the perimeter of the room and in uneven places where planks would stick up.

    However, you risk doing permanent damage to your current cork floor if you do this. We recommend uninstalling your cork flooring before installing the loose lay vinyl flooring.

    If you have any more questions, please feel free to reply to this comment or email us at [email protected].

  354. Hi, I going to lay loose lay vinyl on top of the current floor which is cork, my question is what sort of glue is the best to use? May the glue damage the cork a while after installation?

  355. Hi Jessica – We would definitely recommend smoothing out the subfloor before you install any vinyl flooring. Most manufacturers require you to have an even subfloor before beginning any installation of their flooring. You should be able to go to your local hardware store and rent a floor sander to remove the excess glue and grout that was left behind from the tile and carpet removal.

    If you are still encountering some small imperfections after sanding the leftover grout/glue, you can definitely install an LVT underlayment! We would recommend Perfect Mat LVT or Underlayment – both are made specifically for vinyl flooring.

    If you have any other questions, please feel free to reply to this comment or email us at [email protected]!

  356. We need help! We just removed ceramic tile and carpet from our wood subfloor and it has a thin layer mortar/grout/glue across the whole floor. We are installing Johnson Waterfront La Jolla EVP 6.3 mm thick flooring but we are not sure if the floor is smooth enough or if we should be putting a vapor barrier or a floor muffler down before we lay the flooring. The last thing I want is our flooring looking and sounding cheap! Please help!

  357. Hi Dawn! Great question. With a wood subfloor, you do not need a moisture barrier. If you’re concerned about potential moisture, you can opt to add a vapor barrier film like this one: As far as underlayment goes, some vinyl warranties will be voided if you use one. Check with the flooring you are considering to see what the specifications are. This is one of the underlayments designed for vinyl and sound reduction if you choose to do an underlayment:

    One last option could be purchasing a COREtec brand Engineered Vinyl. This brand is a click lock vinyl that comes with an attached cork backing that is a moisture barrier and sound insulator. They have beautiful patterns that you can browse here: Let us know if you have any additional questions.

  358. I am building a new home and it will have wood sub floors. My question is do we need a moisture barrier under a 4mm click and lock vinyl plank? I also was wondering if I can put an under layment for noise reduction?

  359. Hi Emily – great question! I am not sure how drastic of a difference the height is, so I will give you a couple different options depending on your situation.

    1. If the subfloor is only slightly uneven about 1 millimeter or less, it might be worthwhile to glue the planks directly to the subfloor. This will cover slight unevenness and minor subfloor imperfections. You will not use any underlayment. Be sure that gluing the floor to the subfloor will not void any warranties and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for a glue-down installation.

    2. If there is a drastic difference, say about 2 millimeters to an inch, you should try to see if you can hire a professional to come and even your subfloor. It would be worth it in the long run to do this. The cheaper alternative, would be to purchase a transition molding, such as a T-Molding or a Reducer Molding to cover the gap where the seam is in the moddle of the home.

    3. We would not recommend only putting underlayment on one half of the floor and not the other half. Either put underlayment underneath all of the floor or none of it. Since you mention the imperfections, we would recommend using a vinyl underlayment such as Perfect Mat, Floor Muffler LVT, or QEP Cork underlayment depending on your preference.

    If you have any other installation questions, please feel free to reply to this comment, send us an email at [email protected], or give us a call 1-800-520-0961!

  360. Hi William, I am not sure if you are responding to someone’s comment or the post itself, but let me help clarify a few things.

    If you have a flood or substantial water sitting under your vinyl flooring, you definitely should uninstall your floor, dry the area, and reinstall the flooring. Concrete can only soak up so much water and if the subfloor is wood, there is a high risk for rotting, mold, and mildew if standing water is left for too long or not dried properly. You do not need to do these steps if your floor has been a water spill or an accident from a child or dog.

    Of course cork is not the only sound barrier. At Bestlaminate, we also offer Perfect Mat and Floor Muffler LVT, both well rated sound barrier underlayments for vinyl floors. Yes, cork can definitely be used as an underlayment. We sell it in rolls and it is attached as an underlayment to COREtec vinyl flooring.

    You are also right in that no vinyl flooring will soak up water. If it is installed over concrete without any underlayment though, there is a good chance that small amounts of moisture will be absorbed by the concrete, since it is a porous material.

    I hope this helps clarify any misunderstandings that you may have come across in this thread or post. If you have any other concerns, please feel free to replay to this response and we will be happy to help you!

  361. I am installing a 4.2mm vinyl in my home, it is a manufactured home so there is a seam down the middle of the house. At one side it ant completely even. Can I just lay them? Use padding under the lower side? What do you suggest?

  362. OMG nothing this lady says is true about vinyl plank flooring. No u do not need to demo, dry, and reinstall your VPF everytime it gets wet. No cork is not the only soundbarrier. No cork is not an underlayment. No VPF is not going to soak up water. Please do not listen to anything this Harriet Homeowner says.

  363. Hi Marilou! How uneven is your concrete subfloor? I assume you mean you tore up carpet from your subfloor and there is adhesive left behind from the carpeting. You should remove all of the adhesive and carpeting before installing any new flooring or underlayment. Not having an even subfloor will damage the integrity of your flooring.

    Once you have an even subfloor, you do not have to put anything between a concrete subfloor and vinyl flooring. However, if you are installing in a basement, we would recommend installing a vapor barrier at the very least, such as Visqueen Vapor Barrier, which will keep moisture away from your flooring. If you are looking to add a little bit of cushioning, you could install an LVT underlayment such as Perfect Mat LVT or Floor Muffler LVT.

    If you have anymore questions, please call us at 1-800-520-0961 or email us at [email protected]!

  364. hello, do I need to put something in between the planks and the concrete, if the concrete under the carpet is rough and not even?

  365. Hi Brandon – This is actually a very good question and we’re really glad you asked it!

    3-4 inches is a lot of water to have sitting on your floor, underlayment, and subfloor. You should absolutely pull up, dry, and replace your vinyl flooring everytime it floods this much.

    Now, we have a question for you: What kind of underlayment do you have? The type of underlayment choices for vinyl flooring are usually limited to cork, a special LVT underlayment, or a vapor film. If you are using cork or special foam LVT underlayment, you should immediately pull everything up and check to make sure there is no mold or mildew growing. Underlayment can be a breeding ground for mold and mildew when left wet. Your options are to let it dry out or to toss it and install new underlayment.

    Since you are having consistent water issues, we would recommend a plastic vapor barrier, such as Visqueen Vapor Barrier, which will not grow any mildew or mold since it’s plastic and you will not need to worry too much about drying it out if you have a small leak.

    For large basement floods or leaks though, you should ALWAYS pull up your flooring, dry the area, and reinstall the floor. A concrete subfloor can only suck up so much water, and fans and a dehumidifier can only do so much to dry an area as well. We hope this information was helpful and thank you for reaching out!

  366. Hello,

    We recently installed vinyl plank flooring in our half-finished basement. It’s an older home with a history of very minor water entry (through cracks in foundation, from excess run-off during snow melts or heavy storms). We went with vinyl plank for that reason, and installed floor underlayment vapor barrier underneath.

    With that said, here’s my dumb question: is it absolutely necessary to pull up, wash and re-install the vinyl planks every time the basement gets wet? Our last instance was quite severe (3-4 inches of runoff filled with sediment, but no “sewer” backup – the only drain in our basement is our sump pump, which doesn’t connect to sewer lines).

    Do we need to worry about mold/mildew between the underlayment and the floor? and between the underlayment and the vinyl planks? We have 5 fans currently running, a dehumidifier, and an in-house AC unit.

    Thanks for your help.

  367. Good question, Janee. Yes, moisture barriers and vapor barriers are the same thing. If your home is prone to floods and you are worried about your subfloor becoming damaged, we actually recommend that you use a moisture barrier.

    Vinyl flooring does require a thinner underlayment/moisture barrier than laminate flooring, because it’s generally a thinner floor. We would recommend using a moisture barrier that is 1mm thick or less, such as Visqueen Vapor Barrier. If you are looking for moisture protection and would also like some cushioning, you could also use Floor Muffler LVT, which has sound dampening properties.

    We do also carry a wide selection of vinyl flooring and we even recently launched a new line of flooring called COREtec which is 100% waterproof that might be perfect for you!

    If you have any questions or need any assistance, you can call us at 1-800-520-0961 or email us at [email protected] and we will be happy to help you!

  368. Are moisture barrier and vapor barrier the same thing?
    We had a flood in our manufactured home (We use as a rental) and are having to replace the laminate flooring and are considering LVP. The moisture barrier saved the subfloor during the water leak. Should we or do we need to put that down again if we install LVP?

  369. Hi Lisa, it may actually be that the subfloor was not installed properly, or the subfloor is not even and there are air pockets in between the LVT and the subfloor. Since your floor comes with a cork underlayment already attached, you actually should NOT use extra underlayment. The only thing we would have possibly recommended would be a Visqueen Vapor Barrier to protect the subfloor, should there be any moisture that seeps through the joints of your vinyl flooring. We would highly recommend having a professional come in and take a look to give their opinion to fix the problem. Good luck! If you need any other advice, feel free to visit our Help Pages or give us a call 1-800-520-0961!

  370. Hi David! Unfortunately, the answer is no to both of your questions. We would recommend uninstalling the previous floating floor before installing the new vinyl floating floor. While it may seem inconvenient now, it will keep you from running into complications, such as buckling and warping, with your newly installed vinyl floor in the long run. If you need any additional help, you can check out our Help Pages or give us a call at 1-800-520-0961!

  371. Hello
    I just replace my two upstairs bathrooms with Armstrong Luxe Plank Vinyl in Piazza Travertine. They were installed directly over our wood subfloor without any underlayment as it was not suggested that I needed it. (My fault for not researching the value of underlayment before going ahead with the project) The install type is rigid core locking and it has an acoustic cork backing attached to the tile (8mm thickness). Unfortunately, my floors now have a slight ‘crackle’ sound when stepped on and it doesn’t feel solid like the LVT installed at the store showroom. I am disappointed to hear something other than my footsteps and the feel of walking on the floor is not the expectation I had. What causes the “crackling” sound when stepping? Do you lean towards installing underlayment on wood sub floors more than concrete? Unfortunately, I’ve learned a hard lesson….maybe others can learn from mine.

  372. We currently have a floating laminate floor (glue together with foam underlayment) and I have read that you should not install vinyl planks over another floating floor. Is there any type of vinyl plank that we could lay over this? Separate question if the answer is no – could we just use a nail gun and nail down the existing laminate floor so it is no longer “floating”? I am guessing not but figured I would ask. Thanks much, David

  373. Hi Gary, great question. As long as the hardwood and ceramic are in good condition, you can install over them. Just make sure the surface is flat and level!

  374. Hi Drew, thanks for the question! If your vinyl has an attached cork backing, you do not need an additional underlayment. All you need to do is make sure your grout lines are filled in, and you have a level, even subfloor to start with. Best of luck on your installation.

  375. Question- Is there any problem installing EVP directly over hardwood and ceramic tile? Both of these surfaces are in decent shape but I want to avoid a costly and messy demo.

  376. Hi Alana, I’ve found a great looking wide plank vinyl from Nucor, but I keep getting different installation advice , my plan is to lay this vinyl flooring over 16″ square ceramic tile which is flat and even other than 1/4″ grout seams, one person tells me I need an underpayment and the other tells me no, and the other tells me he’s not sure , this flooring has a cork underside and its tongue and groove snap in , I could sure use some solid advice .

  377. Hi Jeff! Great question. We always recommend adding a small expansion gap, regardless of the installation type. Your moldings should cover the gaps.

    One of the biggest difference between a click and a glue down/adhesive plank is that the click floors are a floating system, whereas the glue-down vinyls are not. With a floating floor system, the planks are held together by the locking system and are able to freely move with expansion and contraction. It is important for the expansion gap here, so that the floor has room to grow without buckling. Most glue-down LVT floors do not have the locking system, and are laid side by side. It’s harder for these planks to cause any serious expansion/gaps, as they are adhered and not able to move freely. Slight movement can occur with temperature fluctuations, but it will not cause locking system issues like a click lock will. I hope this helps! Let us know if you have any additional questions.

  378. Why do some lvt need expansion room but the ones that come with adhesive on them don’t?? why would one expand and the other doesn’t? I want to glue my LVT to the wood floor but cant get my head around some floors expanding and others don’t,,

  379. Hi Frank! Sorry that you are having issues with your WPC flooring. A couple of things could be attributed to this issue.

    1. The expansion gap might not be enough. I would double check that the expansion gap that was left is the correct amount according to the installation instructions for your specific floor. If you have questions, call the manufacturer of the flooring.

    2. The subfloor is not even. Make sure that your subfloor is as level as possible, otherwise, there will be little pockets of room under your WPC flooring that could eventually cause damage, because it’s not laying flush.

    3. You can install underlayment for vinyl flooring. At Bestlaminate, we have two different types of vinyl underlayments: Perfect Mat and Floor Muffler LVT.

    If you have any other questions, please feel free to give us a call 1-800-520-0961!

  380. Frank Alexander

    Hi, I just installed a click type WPC floating vinyl floor over concrete which is reasonably smooth and clean. I left approximately 3/16″ gap around all 4 walls so there is plenty of room for expansion. As I walk on the floor, it is very noisy as if the planks are not laying flush on the floor and they are bowed. The flooring saleman told me I did not need any sort of underlayment. Will these planks eventually settle down and lay flat or should I pull the flooring back up and lay down an underlayment.

  381. Hi Debbie, great question! Although vinyl is a tough material, the surface can be softer than a vinyl or wood. We would recommend using the furniture pads on the bottom of your furniture legs. This will prevent any serious denting or scratching from sharp legs.

  382. Hello, I have been looking at LVP for some time and really think that is the way to go for my home. Question, do I need to get furniture protectors? The samples seem very tough and could possible hold up under heavy furniture. What do you suggest?

  383. Hi Kelly, thanks for your question! You will not want to use underlayment on the stairs, regardless of what type of vinyl you purchase. There’s not too much of a difference in glue down versus click vinyls. A glue-down vinyl is a great option for larger spaces and commercial applications, as it will have the strongest bond versus a click vinyl. Also keep in mind the installation can be more challenging with glue specifications and proper application. Lastly, you are correct. The glue down versions are a little harder to replace and remove. Hope this helps! If you have additional questions, feel free to reach out to us at [email protected] or 800-520-0961.

  384. What about stairs? Is there a way to do them with the planks? Also what is benefit of gluing? Hard to remove when its time to replace…

  385. Hi Harry! Great question. You do not need to install an underlayment with vinyl flooring. If you want an added cushion and sound reduction, you can look into LVT specific underlayment, such as this one: Be sure to look at your manufacturer warranty first, as some vinyl flooring brands specify that using underlayment can void the warranty!

  386. I am planning to install 5mm thick loose lay vinyl planks on first floor. My questions is, Do I need to use underlay to install Vinyl planks? (Note: it is a brand new home and wooden subfloor will be completed by the builder).

  387. I don’t see where either of our underlayments specify it, but the thicker the plank, the more stable locking system you will have. Considering vinyl is intended for installation right over the subfloor, sanding it might be the best idea! Good luck with your project.

  388. Thanks for the reply. Manufacturer of my vinyl planks states that “underlayment is not required” but provides no information regarding suggestions or requirements if it is desired. I’ve also now found on another site that the manufacturer of a different 1mm LVT underlayment suggests that the vinyl planks must be at least 4mm thick. I’m wondering if I should just sand the floor after all haha…

  389. Hi John, great question. Yes, you are correct. A 2mm underlayment will be too thick and soft, causing the locking system to be weak. Since vinyl flooring is a thinner product, you need a different underlayment. We carry two types of underlayment specific for vinyl planks. You can find them here: & Lastly, be sure to check with your vinyl manufacturer instructions, as using an underlayment with your product could void your warranty. Hope this helps! Lets us know if you have any other questions.

  390. I am looking to put an underlayment under our 1/8″ or 3.175mm click lock vinyl plank on concrete to help with uneven areas due to a former floor being glued down. We have scraped the floor almost clean, but a couple minor spots are not perfectly level. I thought this could help prevent the need to sand everything down and create a dust storm that will inevitably find its way onto our new carpet upstairs. Is a 2mm foam underlayment too thick for this click lock vinyl? I am concerned about weakening the locking edges. Seems like most places suggest 1.5 or 1mm underlay for vinyl. But 2mm is cheaper by a long shot.

  391. Hi Derrick, thanks for the question! You can install vinyl directly over concrete. If you have any areas in the basement that tends to be damp or holds excess moisture, I would recommend laying a vapor barrier. Vinyl is waterproof, but if water begins to accumulate and sit underneath the planks for an extended period of time, mold can start to become an issue. Let us know if you have any addition questions! You can find our vapor barrier here:

  392. Derrick Cearbaugh

    Do i need to put down a vapor barrier when installing vinyl flooring in a basement or do i just put it on the concrete

  393. Great questions, Cambrie! Luxury vinyl flooring is not a underlayment and should not be used as an underlayment under other flooring. There are underlayments that can be placed under luxury vinyl flooring, such as Floor Muffler LVT UltraSeal and Perfect Mat LVT underlayment, to provide cushioning and sound dampening properties. If you have any more questions, please contact us at 1-800-520-0961 and a knowledgeable sales representative can assist you!

  394. Question:- I’m building a home and I want to put in luxury vinyl flooring. However, hard flooring gives me terrible feet pain. Could this be used for cushioning so flooring isn’t so hard on people with feet problems?

    Also, could a person still bounce a basketball on the flooring with this underlayment?

  395. Hi Jason! We would not recommend installing cork underlayment underneath vinyl flooring. We do however now have a couple of underlayments that are made specifically for vinyl flooring – Perfect Mat LVT Acoustic 1.5MM Underlayment and Floor Muffler LVT UltraSeal 1MM Underlayment. I hope this helps you and good luck on your vinyl installation!

  396. With going on concert floors . We are thinking about the cold floor and want to put cork down first for the cold then put vinyl on top . Is this alright to do ? I know we don’t need but we are not wanting the floor to be to cold

  397. Hi Don! Thanks for the question. With any floating floor installation, you should not glue the planks down. These floors can contract and expand, which gluing can restrict and cause buckling or cupping. Also, going against the manufacturer instructions will void your warranty. I hope this helps. We are looking to introduce more grey vinyls very soon! Please let us know if you have any additional questions.

  398. I want to glue locking vinyl planks to avoid the transition strip between rooms……………….normally these planks float but I have had different advise on whether I can glue them………….

    I can not find many gray planks in glue down vinyl…………..

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