Installing WPC Vinyl

Installing WPC vinyl flooring is similar to a click-lock vinyl and laminate installation. Be sure to follow your manufacturer specific instructions, but you can use these as a guide!


Room temperature and humidity of installation area should be consistent with normal, year-round living conditions for at least one week before installation of flooring. Maintaining an optimum room temperature of 70o F and a humidity range of 30-50% is recommended.


All Subfloors must be:

  • Dry
  • Structurally sound
  • Clean: Thoroughly swept and free of all debris
  • Level: Flat to 4.7mm(3/16”) per 3.3 meters (10-foot) radius

Wood subfloors must be dry and well secured. Nail or screw every 6” along joists to avoid squeaking. If not level, sand down high spots and fill low spots with a Portland Based leveling patch. Concrete subfloors must be fully cured, at least 60 days old, and should have minimum 6-mil poly-film between concrete and ground. Subfloor should be flat and level within 3/16” per 10’ radius.If necessary grind high spots down and level low spots with a Portland leveling compound. Ceramic Tile, resilient tile and sheet vinyl must be well-bonded to subfloor, in good condition, clean and level. Do not sand existing vinyl floors, as they may contain asbestos.

For all installation methods:

  • Tape measure
  • Tapping block (trimmed piece of flooring)
  • Pencil
  • Pry bar or pull bar
  • Chalk line
  • Crosscut power saw
  • 3M Scotch-Blue™ 2080 Tape
  • Rubber mallet Acceptable subfloor types: CDX Underlayment Grade Plywood (at least ½” thick)
  • Underlayment grade particleboard
  • OSB (at least ¾” thick)
  • Concrete slab
  • Existing wood floor – Ceramic tile Resilient tile & sheet vinyl


Open several boxes and work from a variety of tiles to give you the best look to your flooring. Inspect the planks carefully before installation and do not install any that are damaged or defective. You may be able to file a claim with your supplier if it is within the warranty terms.

Begin installation next to a perimeter wall. This is usually the straightest and best reference for establishing a straight working line. Establish this line by measuring an equal distance from the wall at both ends and snapping a chalk line. The distance you measure
from the wall should be the width of a plank. You may need to scribe cut the first row of planks to match the wall in order to make a straight working line if the wall is out of straight. You may want to position a few rows before starting installation to confirm your layout decision and working line. When laying flooring, stagger end joints from row to row by at least 8”. When cutting the last plank in a row to fit, you can use the cut-off end to begin the next row. If cut-off end is 8” in length or less, discard it and instead cut a new plank at a random length and use it to start the next row. Always begin each row from the same side of the room. When near a wall, you can use a pry bar to pry close the side and end joints

1. Starting from the RIGHT with the tongue facing the wall, carefully place the first board in place. (Figure 1)
2. Align the next piece by overlapping the end of the first board. Press down firmly to lock short end, preferably by tapping on joint with a rubber mallet. Continue in this manner until reaching the final plank in the first row.
3. Cut the final board piece to length
4. Begin the second row with the cut piece from the first row. (Figure 3) If the cut piece is shorter than 8” (20 cm), do not use it. Instead, begin with a new board that is at least 8” in length and allows 8” between the end joints on the adjacent planks.
5.Position the first board in place by angling it up slightly,pushing forward and interlocking the side tongue. (Figure 2) Slide the board to the left as necessary to align the edges of the end joint.
6.Carefully push the board down until the tongue and groove lock together on the side and ends.
7.Press down firmly on end joint, preferably tapping with a rubber mallet to fully engage short end.
8.Install the remaining boards and rows in the same manner. (Figures 3 & 4)
9.Cut the last board to size. If necessary, complete the tight fit by tapping the board into place with a pull bar.
10.Whenever practical, use cut pieces from previous rows as the starter board to reduce waste.
11. Maintain 8” spacing between end joints after the first four rows for best appearance.


12. The last row may need to be cut lengthwise (ripped).
13. Place the last row of planks to be fit no top of the last row of installed planks. Use a piece of plank as a scribe to trace the contour of the wall.
14. Mark where the board will be cut. If the fit of the wall is simple and straight,simply measure for the correct fit and cut.
15. After boards are cut, position planks and tighten the fit using the pull bar.

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